Dealing with dry (or dehydrated) barrier-damaged, acne-prone skin during the winter can be a challenge, to say the least. As someone who's tried just about everything out there to clear their skin, I can finally say I have a few solid pointers for those who may be dealing with the same woes this season. Keep in mind that everyone's skin is different, so what works for me may not work for you, but I can tell you a little bit about mine in the hopes that if yours is similar, I can point you in the direction of a few products that have finally worked well.
Ironically enough, my skin hates most "acne-fighting" products. Anything that contains higher percentages of salicylic acid or other harsh actives makes my skin break out more or they're just too drying. At this point, I've actually found that sticking to formulas that are hydrating and made for sensitive skin actually clear my skin up pretty quickly. Not to mention the fact that I used Tretinoin for years to clear my skin up but didn't realize that it was destroying my skin barrier in the process. Let me tell you, some may say that drying out your skin and acne is the answer to clearing it up, but it's most definitely not. Skin-barrier damage can create opportunistic "holes" in your skin for bacteria and other pollution to enter it, exacerbating your acne even further.
Even though I've learned all this and it's been imperative on my skin journey, I still turn to the experts for further advice since we know skincare never works as a one-size-fits-all approach. Marisa Garshick, MD, has a few tips: "It is important that even those with acne-prone skin remember to use a moisturizer to prevent the skin from becoming too dry or irritated," she says. "Additionally, if the skin feels tight or is dry and flaky, it may be needed to skip a day of any acne treatments to allow the skin to recover. For those with dry, acne-prone skin, it is especially important to introduce active ingredients slowly, starting off just a few times per week and gradually increasing the frequency."
Below, you'll find a mix of products that work for dry, barrier-damaged, acne-prone skin along with a few derm recs for winter, too. Keep scrolling.
"This moisturizer is a favorite for those with acne-prone skin. It contains a combination of ceramides to help strengthen the skin barrier and niacinamide to soothe the skin. It is great for all skin types including those with acne-prone skin, as it is noncomedogenic." — Garshick
Pros: Noncomedogenic, provides up to 48 hours of hydration, restores the skin barrier, suitable for sensitive skin
Cons: Tends to slightly pill
Key Ingredients: Glycerin, prebiotics, ceramides
Customer Review: "This is a good staple moisturizer."
"This lightweight daily moisturizer helps to hydrate while also providing adequate broad-spectrum SPF coverage. It contains ceramides and hyaluronic acid which can help to reduce the potential irritation from acne-fighting ingredients." — Garshick
Pros: Lightweight, contains SPF 30, oil-free, restores the skin barrier
Cons: Packaging needs improvement
Key Ingredients: Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, SPF 30
Customer Review: "As a dark-skinned Black woman with sensitive skin, I very much appreciate this product. It's a high-quality, lightweight moisturizer that leaves no cast on my skin. It also works very well in this horrible Texas heat. The only issue I have is the packaging. It took forever to get the pump working, and the pump doesn't have a fixed position which makes it a little weird to use. I like this product a lot. Great for spring/summertime use. Great matte finish. Moisture lasts all day. But the pump's gotta go."
"This gentle daily face moisturizer contains both hyaluronic acid and ceramides. It helps to draw moisture in and support the skin barrier. This lightweight formulation can be used all year and is especially good for those with sensitive skin as it is free of fragrance, parabens, formaldehyde, and other preservatives." — Garshick
Pros: Formulated without common irritants, oil-free, noncomedogenic, affordable
Cons: May not be hydrating enough for drier skin types
Key Ingredients: Squalane, glycerin, hyaluronic acid
Customer Review: "Rare to find an affordable face cream where you instantly feel the effects as soon as you put it on. This cream is unscented and lightweight. A little goes a long way and it quickly and seamlessly seeps into the skin leaving it nice and soft. Great for morning prep, pre-makeup, and evening."
This has been my holy grail SPF for years. It doesn't break me out, helps calm redness from any new breakouts with niacinamide, and absorbs so quickly and easily into the skin. It's also the perfect SPF to wear under makeup, as it plays well with any primer or foundation.
Pros: Contains SPF 46, fragrance-free, formulated for acne-prone skin
Cons: Contains chemical SPF filters
Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, niacinamide
Customer Review: "I don't think I have enough great things to share about this sunscreen. The redness on my face has gone down dramatically, it applies evenly and without a weird after feeling or film. This sunscreen is expensive but it's a game changer and you only have to apply one to two pumps for proper coverage."
For extra hydration that sinks deep into the skin, try The Ordinary's hyaluronic acid serum. It's feather-light but still leaves skin plump and moisturized. To be perfectly honest, I'm also not someone who likes spending a ton of money on hyaluronic acid alone when most pricier formulas contain the same kind as the more budget-friendly formulas.
Pros: Affordable, provides enhanced skin hydration
Cons: Finish is a bit sticky
Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5
Customer Review: "I have normal-to-dry skin. This product is amazing. I use this A.M. and PM. Works great for makeup skin prep, works even better for nighttime routine. Everyone needs this product!!!"
This primer has been liquid gold for me over the past year. It contains a thin layer of silk to diminish the look of pores, fine lines, and acne or acne scars. I also love the hydrating base it creates for my foundation and my sensitive skin has never reacted badly to it.
Pros: Weightless on the skin, protects skin from pollutants, hydrates skin
Cons: Expensive
Key Ingredients: Silk, green tea leaf extract
Customer Review: "I bought the small size to test it out after I saw a couple influencers use and it definitely is worth it. It leaves your base so smooth and helps for a better finish. It did not separate any of my makeup."
This weightless, oil-free moisturizer from CoverGirl offers up to 72 hours of intense hydration with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and cactus water.
Pros: Affordable, hydrates skin for 72 hours, oil-free
Cons: Not fragrance-free
Key Ingredients: Cactus water, hyaluronic acid,
Customer Review: "Hands down my favorite face cream. So light, and actually soaks in, leaving skin feeling dewy. Works great under makeup and doesn't seem to interfere with other face products. I also use it on the backs of my hands. I really wish this came in a body lotion. It seems to hydrate, not just moisturize."
I have several different skincare devices that do different things, but I always like to streamline my routine by looking for a device that can do it all. In this case, that would be ZIIP's Halo Device. I'd need an entirely separate story to list all the incredible benefits this device has to offer, but to give you the CliffsNotes version, it can help prevent and reverse the signs of aging, decrease acne, and promote supple and glowing skin overall.
Yes, the price tag is hefty, but longtime esthetician Melanie Simon created this device to deliver the results of an incredible (and expensive) facial in your own home. I hopped on an incredible Zoom call with Simon recently, where she talked me through the device and how to customize it for my own specific skincare needs. It's truly a magical device, and if you can afford it, I say it's an absolute must in your routine.
Pros: Helps prevent premature skin aging, decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promotes a natural glow
Cons: Expensive
Customer Review: "I’ve been using my ZIIP for about a month now and absolutely love it. It’s helping my eyes look more lifted and smoothing my marionette lines."
This has been a tried-and-true acne-clearing toner for me for years. Besides Biologique Recherche's Lotion P50, it's one of the toners that's worked the best for my skin. It contains 2% salicylic acid, which I feel is the safe-zone percentage for people like me who have sensitive or reactive skin. It's enough to do the job but isn't so strong that it will cause even more of a skin reaction.
Pros: Clears clogged pores quickly, contains potent antioxidants
Cons: May be too strong for extra sensitive skin
Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, green tea
Customer Review: "This product is so amazing!! It immediately gives me a nice healthy glow! My skin feels amazing after."
I know some derms say to avoid oils altogether if you have acne-prone skin, but if used right, it may not be an issue for some. Noncomedogenic face oils like this one from Summer Fridays have saved my skin and have never caused any new breakouts for me. I'd say it even helped heal them while leaving my skin looking plump, hydrated, and glowing.
Pros: Plumps the skin, provides extra hydration, contains noncomedogenic oils
Cons: Expensive
Key Ingredients: Meadowfoam, hemp, sunflower, cranberry, olive, broccoli, grapeseed oil
Customer Review: "I tried this product because I was looking for something to add some deep moisture to my winter skin-care routine. I'm from Northern Canada and our temperatures and winds are really hard on my combination, acne-prone skin. After some trial, I really like using this by adding three to four drops to my moisturizer. This keeps it from being too thick for my skin, which is prone to breakouts, but adds all the extra moisture I need. There's also not a notable scent which is great, and the texture feels really nice. Because a little goes a long way with this one, a bottle is probably going to last me an entire winter!"
Because I'm a skincare-device freak, I have another do-it-all recommendation you'll want to give a shot. If you've ever used TheraBody's TheraGun Pro or Mini, you'll love the brand's latest offering, the TheraFace Pro. I know, the price tag is a bit startling, but it's a few different devices in one. It offers blue and red light therapy (both great for reducing acne and stimulating collagen production), facial massage, and microcurrent.
I received this over the holidays and I've been obsessed with it for the past few weeks. I've been using the blue light feature (for acne) and microcurrent the most, but the facial massage tools are so therapeutic after a long, stressful day. My skin has also been brighter, clearer, and just overall looks so much healthier. It's a new staple in my routine.
Pros: Treats the skin and muscles of the face using multiple device attachments, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Cons: Expensive
Customer Review: "I love that this device is LED, microcurrent, a cleanser, and a massager all in the same place. It's super compact and easy to use. The massage with LED is my favorite setting but each attachment works well. Highly recommend."
I'm going to tell you a little secret: Using mostly Luzern products is what keeps my skin hydrated, glowing, and non-problematic. The brand's new offering, its Detox Cleansing Masque, can be used as a mask or cleanser on days when your skin's feeling a bit congested. My complexion has been incredibly dry due to a bit of skin-barrier damage, but instead of over-exfoliating to combat acne (which is my natural tendency), I've been using this detox mask in its place as a cleanser a few nights a week. It contains both kaolin and bentonite clay to help break up congestion with ease, but it also contains hyaluronic acid and squalane to provide deep hydration.
Pros: Clears clogged pores without drying out your skin, detoxifies
Cons: Expensive
Key Ingredients: Bentonite clay, kaolin clay, hyaluronic acid, squalane
Customer Review: "Amazing product that gently cleanses and detoxes your skin. My face feels soft, smooth, and looks clear and fresh. Enjoy it along with all of Luzern’s products!"
This article was originally published at an earlier date and has since been updated.