Let's face it: Lingerie is a basic necessity when building a wardrobe. And while we love a cute bralette or fancy robe here and there, the perfect bra can really be a game-changer. Thankfully, the brand Chantelle Paris has got us covered, as its meticulous process aims to create bras that will fit every woman.
Having been around since 1876 (over 140 years!), the brand considers itself a “true fashion lingerie house.” And when we took a deeper look into how the lingerie is crafted, it wasn’t difficult to see why. Not only does it take five years of training to become a pattern designer for the brand (and ten to become an expert), but each bra also requires two years of development.
When a bra is made, Chantelle tests it on twenty women of different shapes and sizes to ensure it will be a perfect fit, regardless of body type. Additionally, the fabric that goes into making the bras has to pass 31 different tests. Despite of all of this attention to detail, Chantelle’s lingerie remains at a reasonable price point, with bras costing between $70-$150.
Needless to say, we were intrigued by the precision that goes into making Chantelle bras, so we reached out to the brand for a little insight. For more about the two-year production process, and to learn how the brand creates perfectly fitting bras, read on.
What are the 31 different tests done on the fabric?
Chantelle pays great attention to the quality of its products and the selection of its materials. Different machines have been designed to test these materials. A few examples include:
Eclatomètre: To detect the weakest points of resistance of the material and ensure quality.
Suntest: To ensure that light exposure does not cause degradation of colours.
Boulochage: To ensure that the materials do not pill during the life of the finished product.
Snagpod: To test the fabric's resistance against snagging.
What are the lingerie makers testing for?
They test the fabrics, the lace, all the elements which make up the composition and its resistance in various situations. A rigorous selection of superior materials, strict aesthetic and technical controls at each production stage, and tiny tolerance margins in order to guarantee the durability and exceptional comfort of our products.
Can you talk a little about the two year sample production process that goes into developing a reference?
The process is very long from creation to industrialisation. The creation process begins by studying trends, colours, materials, shapes and women's needs. Then, technical development begins where we examine the industrial feasibility of the product so that it meets Chantelle's brand requirements. Next we do wearing tests on different bust sizes (with 25 women).
To preserve its technological edge and the confidentiality of its development, the Chantelle Group decided in 2004 to keep the development of its own bra cups in-house and to dedicate specific research teams to that.
Finally comes the cutting of the pattern. To prepare to make the product, the creative team sends templates in the different sizes that will be made.
Using software, the templates are then positioned so as to optimise use of materials. This operation is called placement. Close to 100,000 templates are sent by the creative department every year, then the fabric is cut by a handheld industrial fabric cutter, around the pattern's shape, to provide several fabric pieces at once.
For more fragile lace, our experts use a cloth-cutting punch developed internally, and meticulously cut out each lace piece one by one using a press, for an impeccable result. Scissors are used to cut elastic or delicate materials, which the cloth-cutter could not.
Last but not least, the lingerie is then assembled. Assembly is a complex step, as there are many pieces, all different depending on size gradations (band size and cup size).
Looking for a perfectly-fitted bra? Thankfully, you can shop Chantelle Paris at David Jones.
Related: One of the Most Popular Items on This Lingerie Site Isn't What You'd Expect
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