Let's be honest for a moment. Fashion can feel frivolous at times, especially within the context of contemporary couture. It can sometimes feel ostentatious compared to our approachable capsule wardrobe. Because modern couture is inaccessible to most consumers and there's so much happening in the world, it's only natural for most to ask, Is haute couture really that serious? I'd never surmise that it would have the weight that so many other topics do in the world, but I'd also never discount its influence. Like it or not, couture has often acted as a reflection of current times—it can tell us what's happening in the stars and the stock exchange. Long before something blows up on TikTok, you better believe its origins can be traced back to couture fashion week.
The essence of what's fashionable always comes back to haute couture because it's about the craft of making clothing. It's not about hyperconsumption; it's about the art. That feels particularly topical as more conversations in the cultural canon center on the idea of adopting the quiet luxury ethos—the shift from keeping up with trends to investing in timeless items. Couture offers people a permission slip to escape from the never-ending trend cycle, and it's a way to fall in love with well-made clothing again. At best, couture can make us see the world in a new light or, at the very least, change our wardrobes. If you're still not convinced about how couture can apply to your relationship with your own closet, you'll want to keep reading.
After hours of image research, I've narrowed down the six best spring/summer 2024 couture collections based on how they made haute couture feel relatable to our everyday lives. Plus, I've identified three looks from each show that are easy to re-create with shopping recommendations. Prepare to become a lover of haute couture.
When it comes to crafting otherworldly creations, none do so like Schiaparelli. Since its inception in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli, the atelier has pushed the boundaries of how we see the universe, one surrealist piece at a time. That legacy has lived on through Daniel Roseberry, as the creative director often pays homage to the house's rich history—the recent haute couture collection being no exception. The brand's show notes explained that Schiaparelli was "famously preoccupied with astrology." That interest was present throughout the spring/summer 2024 collection. Roseberry nodded to the astrological shift into the age of Aquarius (astrologers define the era as a period of innovative technological advancements and social revolutions) by mixing old-world elements with new-world shapes.
For example, there were obvious nods to technological elements through a body-con dress encrusted in "pre-2007 technological artifacts" and the life-sized baby robot styled with a tank top and low-slung cargo pants. But then there are more abstract references to Roseberry's home state of Texas, embodied through cowboy boots, layered buckles, and denim. The pairing of the seemingly opposite aesthetics accurately reflects the dichotomy of living in the modern world. It can be hard to see the wires that connect the past to the future—or how haute couture and ready-to-wear exist on the same planet—yet Roseberry managed to do just that. It will arguably be one of the most defining haute couture collections of our time.
Style notes: Although it's unlikely that you'll be able to get your hands on Schiaparelli's lifelike robot baby, the look above is easy to re-create in your everyday life.
What you'll need: oversize earrings + tank top + cargo pants + cowboy boots
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Shopping for anatomical-shaped jewelry is a must for re-creating the Schiaparelli aesthetic.
A great tank top is luxurious.
Style notes: In addition to pieces encrusted with antiquated technology, Roseberry nodded to the new age through contemporary silhouettes, such as the satin suit above with dramatic tailoring.
What you'll need: satin blazer + button-down + tie + satin trousers
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Sublime.
Satin pants from any brand can make you feel like you belong on a haute couture runway.
Style notes: The key to re-creating this collection is styling your staples with Western-inspired accessories.
What you'll need: button-down shirt + Western-inspired belt + trousers + Western ankle boots
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Quiet luxury, embodied.
Giddyap!
Although couture is supposed to exist outside the realm of everyday clothing, the truth is that it doesn't. Couture reflects the space around us. It might not be what we wear daily, but it can connect us profoundly. Of course, not every maison can connect those dots for us, but not every brand has the same influence as Alaïa. Founded by Azzedine Alaïa in 1964, the Parisian atelier has a long history of using high-end craftsmanship to highlight the female form in an approachable way. That's no more apparent than with the brand's recent summer/fall 2024 couture show. Created by current Creative Director Pieter Mulier, it was, according to the brand, "based on the curve, on the circle, the curves of women, and circles of friends, of chosen family, an idea essential to the essence of Alaïa."
The idea of bringing curves to life is embodied through various silhouettes throughout the collection. Jeans came in a dramatic barrel cut to create a rounded shape. Similarly, multiple looks within the collection featured a unique technique in which single strands of merino wool yarn were draped to create circular-shaped skirts and dresses that moved as models walked. Even outside the realm of clothing silhouettes, we saw the concept brought full circle through accessories—reference the oversize bangles, pumps with arced heels, and handbags with sharp curves. The collection proved that the relationship between haute couture and ready-to-wear isn't linear. It's a curve. All of it is connected. You just have to have a master like Mulier to show you the way.
Style notes: Since full circle skirts were the focal point of much of the collection, re-creating the look requires keeping your styling minimal. Wear a neutral turtleneck and pumps to keep attention on the skirt and jewelry.
What you'll need: beige turtleneck + full skirt + oversize bangles + pointed pumps
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You better believe this bodysuit will be your go-to staple for years to come.
I'm living for the return of large bangles.
Style notes: The easiest way to pay homage to Alaïa's couture collection is by wearing a pair of barrel-leg jeans with a turtleneck.
What you'll need: white turtleneck sweater + barrel-leg jeans + oversize bangles + ankle boots
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Another great foundational basic!
The more demure barrel-leg silhouette on these jeans makes them easier to wear day in and day out.
Style notes: Mulier's mission with the collection was to pay homage to the curves in life, so when re-creating the look, you'll want to opt for draped items and accessories that have a dramatic bend to them.
What you'll need: draped sweater + poncho + layered bangles + asymmetrical skirt + ankle-strap pumps
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Capes are making a comeback—mark my words.
Is it just me, or does the curve of this heel make you want to cry because it's that good?
In recent years, there have been many conversations surrounding the future of high fashion. In an age where pragmatism is prioritized over idealism, being in the business of haute couture doesn't always translate. One atelier has managed to move the needle on the "dialogue between poetry and reality": Fendi. Since its inception in 1925, the Italian house has made the case for couture's place in contemporary life, but the brand's spring/summer 2024 couture show feels particularly reflective of that aim. As Artistic Director Kim Jones detailed in the show's notes, "In the collection, there is humanism at the heart of this future. There's the body, the silhouette within the silhouette, the person, and the handwork of the couture. The collection is about structure and decoration, where the two become indivisible. I wanted an idea of precision and emotion at once."
The aim to blur the lines between couture and prêt-à-porter was achieved through how the skills of artisans were used in conversation with classic silhouettes. For instance, the sharply tailored separates that have proliferated ready-to-wear collections over the last few seasons were elevated through exotic textiles and embroidery techniques. Similarly, the staple rib-knit dress was given a stylish upgrade through a knotting technique that creates a swaddle around the shoulders and bustier. Then there were the accessories, which took some of the more approachable Fendi items, including its popular baguette bag and eyewear, and gave them bespoke upgrades. The result was a collection that managed to connect the two worlds, harmonizing the past and the future in one Fendi collection.
Style notes: The key to making Fendi's couture collection feel much closer to home lies in accessories that pay homage to the show. A pair of rimless sunglasses styled with a tailored leather coat and pumps should do the trick.
What you'll need: rimless sunglasses + leather coat + handbag + fringe pumps
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Okay, these glasses aren't covered in white diamonds like the shades in the couture collection, but they're still just as cool!
You can also nod to the futurism of the Fendi collection by opting for a patent-leather coat.
Style notes: When drawing inspiration from Fendi's couture collection, it's imperative to pay attention to the details. Don't just wear a white sweaterdress; choose one made from luxurious materials.
What you'll need: layered ear cuffs + white sweaterdress + handbag
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Getting your hands on a baguette is half the battle in re-creating this look.
It's made from cashmere, so you'll feel like you're a model on the couture runway too.
Style notes: Tailored separates are pivotal to making those traditional couture items approachable, which can be applied to your wardrobe. The metallic accessories or sequin skirt in the back of your closet can feel brand-new when styled with a tailored blazer.
What you'll need: brown blazer + sequin skirt + embellished bag + silver pointed pumps
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Chocolate-brown blazers always look chic, even if they're not haute couture.
Futuristic vibes on deck.
It would be misguided to think that couture collections don't somehow inform our broader culture, especially since Chanel has proven otherwise. After Gabrielle Chanel swung open the doors of her atelier in 1910, the French fashion house helped shift almost every aspect of society throughout the 20th century. Chanel's couture collections have often existed at the nexus of culture—highlighting the intersection between high art, high fashion, and social hierarchies. Just to put it into perspective, Chanel released its signature tweed sets when it was socially unacceptable for women to wear suits. Before the ballet became an indication of highbrow art (or a trending fashion aesthetic), Chanel had close ties to the ballet, often creating for choreographers and dancers. Chanel couture has been a part of cultural movements, period.
That historical influence isn't lost on the brand's current creative director, Virginie Viard. When it came time to create the spring/summer 2024 collection, Viard was thinking about movement within the context of dance and beyond. We saw that reflected in Viard's showcasing of signature balletcore elements like tulle, ruffles, pleats, and lace throughout the collection. But it was not just the usage of bows and tights that made the collection feel reminiscent of dance; it was the ease of the clothing itself. With so much of traditional couture being, well, uncomfortable, it was refreshing to see buttoned blazers styled with tulle skirts and minidresses with tights. It felt emblematic of what Chanel has always been about—giving women the freedom to move. From that liberation comes a new way in which we're able to see haute couture's role in culture.
Style notes: You can't pay homage to Chanel couture without a classic tweed piece! Whether you opt for a dress or blazer, it will ensure you capture the essence of this brand.
What you'll need: tweed blazer dress + tights + ankle-strap sandals
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Tweed is a quintessential part of the Chanel aesthetic.
You'll own these for years to come.
Style notes: To make those ballet-inspired pieces work for everyday life, take pointers from the Chanel look above by pairing tulle, tights, and bows with a tailored blazer.
What you'll need: hair bow + black blazer + tulle skirt + white tights + ankle-strap sandals
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So posh!
It's the contrasting satin collar that sold me.
Style notes: Whoever said couture couldn't dance the fine line between being functional and embodying high fashion never saw the Chanel runway look above.
What you'll need: hair bow + black minidress + white tights + ankle-strap sandals + shoulder bag
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Consider this your sign it's time to invest in a Chanel bag.
White tights were basically in every one of the Chanel couture looks, making it a nonnegotiable purchase for re-creating the collection.
Couture has always been in a constant state of evolution. In many ways, how we collectively define "couture" reflects the relationships humanity has with its clothing. Long before the industrial revolution, one could argue that all clothing could have been considered couture because there were no systemized clothing-production methods. Of course, the quality of clothing has always been a visual indicator of social class. On the whole, it was only after the democratization of fashion through industrialization that couture came into its distinct category, separate from ready-to-wear. One could argue that the French fashion house Dior helped shape that distinction. Throughout its almost 80-year tenure, the atelier has championed craftsmanship and challenged our perspective of clothing, including in its spring/summer 2024 couture collection.
As explained in the brand's notes, the show was called Big Aura because of how Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri sees the evolution of couture. She explained, "Haute couture is a perpetually fertile ground for contemplation where the reproduction of the original is never the same. Each piece is bound to be adapted to the body of the wearer and carries its own specific aura." We might live in the age of mass-produced fashion, but Grazia Chiuri reminds us that clothing should evolve with us. This was displayed throughout the show as various archival looks (e.g., blazers with nipped-in waists and capes made from moiré) were revised to make them feel contemporary. The result was a collection that exemplified the idea that couture serves as a collective memory.
Style notes: You can't pay homage to the long history of Dior couture without wearing at least one hourglass-shaped blazer—the silhouette is synonymous with the house's legacy.
What you'll need: hair bow + tailored blazer + pencil skirt + platform mules
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Dior's hair accessories are the perfect way to inject a dose of haute couture into your daily life.
The nipped waist on this blazer? Art.
Style notes: Grazia Chiuri used texture to bring archival silhouettes to life, so be sure to play with various textiles in your look.
What you'll need: cape + waistcoat + trousers + layered rings + round-toe heels
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Capes have never been chicer.
The right pair of trousers will convince you of the art of tailoring.
Style notes: If I didn't make it clear, let me reiterate: This collection was all about letting each piece's uniqueness shine. When you're re-creating this look, pay attention to the details. That's where you'll find the aura of each piece.
What you'll need: tailored blazer + pencil skirt + layered rings + platform mules + Dior bag
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Although not present on the couture runway, Dior's saddle bag remains ever-relevant.
NGL, I think about this skirt once a day.
No other brand has pushed the boundaries of how we view haute couture and how it influences the culture better than Jean Paul Gaultier. The eponymous label was founded by the French designer in 1982, quickly making waves in the fashion world for its unconventional, gender-fluid designs that challenged everything from traditional ideas surrounding beauty to what textiles can be considered high-end—Gaultier was one of the first designers to use denim in couture. His work was spotted in music videos and movies, cementing couture into the cultural canon in an unparalleled way. But the influence does not stop there. When Gaultier decided to retire in 2020, rather than shuttering the house, he decided to create collaboration collections with various designers each season.
With every collaboration, we've been able to see designers reimagine the rich archives of the house, and we're reminded that couture, like any art form, is meant to provoke and inspire. Simone Rocha managed to do both with her guest spring/summer 2024 couture collection. Nodding to sultry elements of the couture house, Rocha gave them a softer take. For example, Jean Paul Gaultier's iconic cross-laced corsetry came in the form of a satin pink dress. Similarly, the cone-shaped bustier that's synonymous with the brand's overall sensual aesthetic was affixed to a black dress with a nipped-in waist and ball gown shaped skirt to create a subversive take on romantic fashion. Through the collaboration, Rocha was able to bring a new perspective to the couture house in a way that captivated the internet. It's served as a reminder that couture doesn't have to be out of reach—it can be a part of the conversation with the right creative vision behind it.
Style notes: We see the satin bra that's synonymous with Jean Paul Gaultier given a contemporary feel through the addition of embellishments by Simone Rocha.
What you'll need: bra top + pencil skirt + leather gloves + satin mules
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Yes, you can still shop some of Jean Paul Gaultier's iconic items.
You can style this in so many different ways.
Style notes: There's no better way to pay homage to both fashion houses' signature aesthetics than by wearing a pink corset dress.
What you'll need: oversize earrings + corset dress + platform heels
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Investing in a pair of Simone Rocha earrings is the perfect way to re-create this runway collection.
Note the floral-shaped bustier on this dress.
Style notes: You might not be able to wear a full couture look, but you can feel like you are by wearing a tailored blazer with a full skirt and clear mules.
What you'll need: bejeweled makeup + blazer + full skirt + PVC mules
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A waistline that gives meaning to the term "snatched."
You may not have a fairy godmother on speed dial, but you can have your own pair of glass slippers.
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