What Do Women *Actually* Want to Wear? These Danish Designers Have the Answer

When it comes to design, Scandinavia has long been celebrated for its clean lines, thoughtful craftsmanship, and timeless aesthetic—qualities that have earned it a reputation as a revered place in the world of interior design and beyond. But in recent years, a quietly powerful shift has been reshaping not just how spaces are curated but how people dress, with women at the helm. Nowhere is this shift more evident than in Denmark’s fashion scene, where female designers are redefining what it means to design from a woman’s perspective—and the results are turning heads globally.

At CIFF, the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, the energy is electric. It’s here that the world sees the fresh, nuanced female perspective of Danish design—a perspective that embraces versatility, authenticity, and a fluid sense of femininity. Unlike much of the global luxury fashion landscape, where male creative directors still dominate, Scandinavia’s fashion scene is led largely by women, and their influence is palpable. These aren’t just clothes; they’re statements of identity and freedom, designed with a deep understanding of how women actually live and move.

Walking through CIFF this season, I felt the shift firsthand—the female perspective isn’t just influencing Danish fashion; it’s transforming the industry from the inside out. From mother-daughter duos to female creative directors revitalizing male-founded brands, these designers are reshaping how women dress in Scandinavia. Pay close attention.

Since launching Gestuz in 2008, founder Sanne Sehested has approached design with a clear intention: to create clothing that empowers women instead of overshadowing them. “I wanted to create designs that emphasize the strength of women rather than overshadow,” she says. Inspired by a wardrobe full of vintage pieces and a keen sense for balancing masculine and feminine elements, Sehested shaped a brand that reflects the rich complexity of real women’s lives. “My Gestuz muse is not one thing or one size or one age. She is full of contrast and wants her wardrobe to express that,” she explains.

Whether it’s a sharp leather suit or a soft, flowing dress, every collection is influenced by her all-female team and their lived experiences, rooted in the idea that femininity is fluid and self-defined. “You can be a powerful businesswoman while wearing a draped dress, or a soft, caring mother in a leather suit with giant shoulder pads,” Sanne adds. Through Gestuz, she offers a distinctly Danish vision of womanhood—one that celebrates experimentation, duality, and the freedom to take up space however you want.

The term "designing from the female perspective" can mean many things. How do you interpret that idea, and how is it reflected in the way you build a collection?

I always want to explore the contrasts of femininity and masculinity in our collections. For me it is about creating pieces that I and my team would actually wear. I love the sharp suits and heavy denim. The edgy leather. But I also want to show the softer, slower, flowing qualities. Those that might be undermined or left behind but create a much more interesting journey when combined.

Is there a particular moment or story that’s helped shape the way you think about what women actually want to wear?

Simply following the sartorial year of the many different women in my team is one of my main tools. We have women across the spectrum, from more traditional feminine outfits to ladies with a party heart to the very androgynous dresser. And seeing what they wear, how they wear our pieces, what problems they face with their wardrobe in summer versus winter, what they always reach for on Mondays when they need to feel good fast. That is where the magic happens.

Let’s talk about your S/S 26 collection. What themes or ideas are you exploring this season, and how does it speak to the modern woman you're designing for?

The spring/summer 2026 show explores tension and duality, movement and pause. Draped silhouettes echo the curves of speed; flowing dresses in motion like cars rounding corners. The collection explores the contrasts of femininity and masculinity, stillness and movement, occasion wear and workwear.

Drawing discrete inspiration from vintage racing culture, elements from utility wear are embraced: worn leather, matching suits, heavy denim, a cropped bomber jacket with clear nods to classic workwear silhouettes and reminiscent of vintage mechanic jackets or aviator bombers. Images from the '70s and '80s era of Formula One and Le Mans filled our mood boards. A lot of pictures of Marie-Claude Charmasson, who was a French journalist and race-car driver, were part of our initial inspiration. She is ultra glamorous with this bright blonde hair, and in many of the pictures of her, she is wearing a white boilersuit and her baby-blue helmet. She is also often seen with some vivid red elements, and that color combination really inspired us.

Has your definition of femininity evolved since launching your brand? Reflecting upon that, how do you think that evolution shows up in your silhouettes, materials, or styling?

In reality, femininity is whatever you choose it to be. And with this collection, it might be easy to point at the floor-length pink dress and think that is our take on the feminine. But what we tried to showcase was that power can come in whatever shape works for you. Not just a suit with big shoulders or a badass leather jacket, but also in the softer, quieter pieces. And that embracing that softness—integrating it into the fast pace of our lives—is a really strong statement.

It is not about gender but about discovery, experimentation, telling a story, and emphasizing the areas that feel right to you. It’s about flowing between masculine and feminine without having to consider what society deems “strong.” That you can be a powerful businesswoman while wearing a draped dress or a soft caring mother while wearing a leather suit with giant shoulder pads. Feminine and sensual, masculine and grounded, changing between the two like shifting gears.

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At Herskind, designing from the female perspective isn’t just a concept—it’s part of everyday life. Founded in 2018 by mother-daughter duo Birgitte and Andrea Herskind, the brand has always been rooted in both craftsmanship and a deep understanding of what modern women actually want from their wardrobes. “Herskind is a brand created by women, for women,” they explain. With a nearly all-female team and a shared belief in clothing as a form of self-expression, their process feels both personal and purposeful.

“We admire women in 2025 and all the complexity they bring to the table,” they note. That respect shows up in the pieces themselves—versatile silhouettes, timeless textures, and garments designed to move with the rhythm of real life. “We believe in power not just in loud or bold ways, but also in the quiet strength of care, presence, and authenticity,” they say. Whether through subtle tailoring or easy, flowing lines, Herskind’s vision is rooted in reality—helping women show up in the world exactly as they are, and feel good doing it.

Is there a particular moment or story that’s helped shape the way you think about what women actually want to wear

Over the past 10 years, we’ve seen a shift in how women express themselves—especially here in Denmark, where there’s growing focus on individuality and presence in all areas of life. We believe women deserve clothing that is both thoughtfully designed and comfortable to wear—pieces that work with their lifestyle and allow them to show up as their truest selves, whatever that looks like.

Let’s talk about your S/S 26 collection. What themes or ideas are you exploring this season, and how does it speak to the modern woman you're designing for?

This season, Birgitte focused on versatility. Many of our S/S 26 pieces are designed to be styled in multiple ways. We have shirts that can be tied and buttoned differently, adjustable blazers, and dresses that can go from beachwear to evening wear. It’s all about giving women the freedom to adapt their wardrobe to their mood, schedule, or occasion—without having to compromise on style or comfort.

Has your definition of femininity evolved since launching your brand? Reflecting upon that, how do you think that evolution shows up in your silhouettes, materials, or styling?

Absolutely. We feel there’s a growing return to softer, more grounded values—perhaps as a response to everything going on in the world. We admire women deeply and believe in their power, not just in loud or bold ways, but also in the quiet strength of care, presence, and authenticity. That belief naturally finds its way into our collections—whether through our use of flowing silhouettes, subtle tailoring, or gentle textures.

What kind of woman do you envision wearing your S/S 26 collection? Is there a particular mood or message you hope she embodies on the runway—and beyond?

As mentioned, we’re big believers in celebrating all aspects of the female identity. What we’re seeing now is a beautiful shift: where power isn’t just defined by boldness, but also by softness, elegance, and being unapologetically oneself. Our S/S 26 collection and runway show are a tribute to that shift—and to all the multifaceted women out there. The woman we design for embraces her complexity and dresses to reflect every side of who she is.

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At MKDT, femininity isn’t defined by contrast but by connection. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has stayed true to a quiet, intentional design ethos. With Creative Director Caroline Engelgaar now at the helm, that vision has become even more grounded in a woman’s understanding of how other women live, move, and dress. “When you're a woman designing for women, you inherently understand their needs,” Engelgaar reflects. “The modern woman is constantly in motion; she thinks practically, but she dresses for herself.” That insight is woven into every collection, where classic tailoring is updated with subtle, thoughtful twists—undone seams, sculptural silhouettes, and an understated sensuality. “It’s about building a well-curated wardrobe,” she explains. “Less is more, but always with room for something exceptional.”

For S/S 26, that idea comes to life in a lineup of fluid, purposeful pieces designed to evolve with the wearer throughout her day. Over time, MKDT’s take on femininity has shifted—from borrowing from menswear to softening it, reinterpreting it, and even lending it back. The result is a distinctly Scandinavian sensibility: functional, poetic, and always inspired by real women.

How would you describe your design philosophy when it comes to dressing women today? Are there specific needs, moods, or shifts in lifestyle that guide your approach?

It's about simplicity and wearability. We believe in building a concise, well-curated wardrobe, where every piece is thoughtfully designed, well-fitted, and crafted in quality fabrics. Less is more, but always with room for something exceptional, something crafted.

The term "designing from the female perspective" can mean many things. How do you interpret that idea, and how is it reflected in the way you build a collection?

When you're a woman designing for women, you inherently understand their needs—how they move, how they live, and how they want to feel in their clothes. The modern woman is constantly in motion; she thinks practically, but she dresses for herself. That perspective guides everything—from construction to styling.

Let's talk about your S/S 26 collection. How does it speak to the modern woman you're designing for?

S/S 26 is all about fluidity—moving seamlessly from utility to atelier. With just a few essential pieces, the modern woman can effortlessly transform her look. It's a reflection of today's mindset: a smaller, more purposeful wardrobe that still offers range and personality. Our beloved tailored silhouettes remain at the core—based around structured blazers, sculptural trousers, and fitted dresses. Still polished, but slightly off. Uncut threads. Disproportioned belt buckles. Seams that open to uncover the body.

What kind of woman do you envision wearing your S/S 26 collection? Is there a particular mood or message you hope she embodies on the runway—and beyond?

She's ageless. She knows how to dress, she values fit, quality, and subtle individuality. She's not dressing to be seen but to express something about herself. In a world where practicality often dominates, there's still room to dream. And clothing, even the most functional, can still hold poetry.

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