8 Jewelry Founders Honoring Their Heritage One Heirloom at a Time

Picture this: You've been whisked back to the dawn of humanity. What do you imagine being there? It may seem inconsequential or even inconceivable, but jewelry was one of the most important items during that period. Historians have reported that bling was the currency long before the invention of money. It reflected every culture and each individual's part in civilization. While we may now live in an entirely different time, trinkets still give us a peek into the past and insights into fallen empires, an elusive grandmother, or an elegant trend from a different era. For so many marginalized communities, jewelry has always been a symbolic representation of their own history, acting as a way to subvert the identities pushed upon them by colonialism. Sure, humankind has always participated in the act of passing down heirlooms from generation to generation, but it is especially significant in communities of color—whether from Latin America, Africa, or Asia. For the latter, jewelry is a way for a diverse range of nationalities, ethnicities, and cultures across the Asian diaspora to celebrate their unique heritage.

This tradition continues thanks to a new crop of designers in the demi-fine and fine jewelry space who are committed to honoring their heritage through modern reinterpretations of heirlooms. For so many designers, it's no longer about creating contemporary collections. Rather, it's about telling their communities' stories. At least, that's what we discerned after speaking to a few founders. The way that many of the creatives feel can be best summed up by what Kinn Studio founder Jennie Yoon told us: "Every individual has a story to tell; the best way to honor those moments is through jewelry. Our stories are the most priceless heirloom of all." As we commemorate Asian/Pacific American Heritage Month, there's no better time to share the stories behind some of the coolest brands. Ahead, we've curated a list of eight Asian-founded jewelry brands that are bridging the gap between the past and present through their pieces. Their designs embody all of what an heirloom should be: a little piece of personal history.

Misho

If any jewelry brand were to be the visible definition of "wearable sculptures," it would be Misho. Since the brand's inception in 2016, it has carved out its own space in the industry because of its contemporary twist on classic pieces. Its artful approach to jewelry can be attributed to Suhani Parekh, the India-born, London-based creative director and founder of the brand. Influenced by her educational background in sculpture—she studied at Goldsmiths' College at the University of London—Parekh first started creating jewelry for herself. "I found myself being asked constantly about what jewelry I was wearing, [so] I decided to do something with what I had right in front of me," she said.

While Parekh's Desi background influences many of the brand's offerings, she always aims to think of the long-term picture. She divulged to us, "There's definitely a Desi influence to my pieces, particularly in our shade of gold, but I wouldn't say that it is overwhelmingly a part of my approach to design." For Parekh, it's all about pieces that lend themselves to inspiring generations for years to come. "What makes a great heirloom is that it becomes so beloved by its predecessor that it has been passed down for someone else to enjoy," she explained. "To me, that is so beautiful. I hope Misho can play a part in that."

Tabayer

"Jewelry holds stories, values, and a spiritual connection to the outside world," said Nigora Tokhtabayeva, founder and creative director of Tabayer, and that's what she aims to reflect in her work. Born in Uzbekistan, Tokhtabayeva didn't set out to start a fine jewelry brand until she resided near Bayfront Park in Miami, where sculptures by Isamu Noguchi were displayed. Her proximity to those sculptures, in her own words, sparked her interest in commissioning her first-ever jewelry pieces, leading to the creation of Tabayer in 2021. Since then, Tokhtabayeva has become known for her minimal yet modern designs, which sophisticatedly infuse the spiritual elements of Asian talismans.

Her success lies in her understanding that the best jewelry acts as a conduit between the past and the present, the tangible and spiritual, the interior and exterior worlds. Yes, all of Tabayer's pieces pay homage to Tokhtabayeva's heritage, but they go beyond that. She explained, "I'm always incorporating elements of tradition, symbolism, and craftsmanship into my pieces, but in an abstract and contemporary way. For me, a great heirloom is a piece of jewelry that tells a story that can transcend time—an object imbued with memory and emotion." Her work is a reminder that all jewelry reflects the world around us.

Kinn

Imagine the experience of unearthing a hidden gem. For entrepreneurs, that's akin to the moment they first envision their future endeavors. For founder and CEO Jennie Yoon, however, the idea to start a business came from losing something first. "All of my parents' jewelry that had been passed down through my family was stolen, so I journeyed to Downtown Los Angeles to try to replace a few pieces for my parents," she told us. "I learned about the industry through the process and knew I could create something different." Spoiler: She's done just that.

In seven years, Kinn has become a renowned fine jewelry brand with a design philosophy rooted in relevance for heirlooms. That philosophy is evident through every aspect of the business, from the brand's moniker—which is derived from her mom's maiden name, the word for gold in Korean, and the phrase "next of kin"—to its offerings. The Heritage Collection draws inspiration from old nameplate pieces in different languages. For Yoon, jewelry isn't just a business idea she decided to pursue. It's a way to bring back what's been lost by offering transparency in jewelry production and honoring the stories of the Asian diaspora.

Ming Yu Wang

The true test of a great heirloom lies in whether it can be pulled out of your mother's jewelry box and still feel modern. Not every jewelry brand has mastered that balance, but many can learn from Ming Yu Wang. Born in Taipei, the New York based entrepreneur initially wanted to become a fashion designer, so Wang attained a specialized education in eveningwear at the Fashion Institute of Technology but shifted to jewelry design. She explained, "It was important to know my creations will get passed on and that they'll be adored for many years to come." Pivoting might seem like an overtly pragmatic choice, but for Wang, it was far more personal.

She admits that it was somewhat fated that she'd eventually enter the jewelry business, considering that her full name translates to "king of jade." No matter the forces that led her to found her namesake label in 2013, there's no denying Wang's talent. She's able to create contemporary-feeling jewelry that draws from the archives of fashion history and even her own heritage. "I grew up watching my mom put together game nights with the family in the '80s, where they'd all be playing the game maj-jongg," she said. "All my aunties would be dripping in their best 'fit for the evening with bold statement jewelry. Those memories shape so much of collections to this day." Now, that's how you make modern-day heirlooms.

KatKim

What do heirlooms mean to you? For the founder and creative director of KatKim, they're more than just shiny things to pass down. "Jewelry is a storyteller, a keeper of memories and emotions. Whether it's an engagement ring passed down through generations or a pendant commemorating a significant life event, heirlooms transcend trends and time. They carry the essence of family history," Katherine Kim told us. Like so many great designers before her, Kim understands that the story behind the piece truly makes it special. It's what's made her work stand out in an otherwise saturated market.

Growing up as a Korean American in Los Angeles, Kim didn't necessarily have an inside into the jewelry industry, yet everything has "serendipitously worked out." Her success can't be attributed to chance alone. She's carved out her lane by not sticking to the status quo since the start of her brand. Kim is not a typical jewelry founder, as she started her namesake label in 2016 without any financial backing after taking maternity leave from a design firm. On top of that, none of her collections are conventional to what characterizes the fine jewelry space—her work is comprised of minimal but unexpected silhouettes, all made by hand from sustainably sourced gemstones and metals. Her distinct perspective on jewelry has proven that her work is a story of ingenuity.

Alighieri

Even if you've read Dante Alighieri's Divine Comedy, you might not recall every stanza from the poet. But rest assured, Alighieri founder Rosh Mahtani, has it memorized. We'd surmise that the poem excerpt "Consider your origin" informs so much of the ethos of this contemporary jewelry brand. Yes, much of Mahtani's work embodies her love for stories, and she's been cited regularly for drawing inspiration from Dante's poetry. Beyond the source material, so many of this London-born designer's collections center on themes that explore our collective origin story—e.g., a pair of silver cuffs in the shape of a bone meant to represent rebirth and death.

While other labels may aim to modernize the concept of heirlooms through perfectly cut jewelry shapes, Alighieri leans into the messiness of the human experience. Nothing in life is perfect, nor are Alighieri's collections. Each often features ritualistic and symbolic objects with an antique-inspired feel achieved through craftsmanship techniques such as metal hammering and wax casting. By leaning into imperfection, Alighieri's designs embody the stories that remind us of our collective humanity.

Grace Lee

The best heirlooms don't spend years languishing in the back of a jewelry box, a belief that guides Grace Lee. Born in Seoul, the Korean designer first felt compelled to start her own brand when she realized that the fine jewelry market lacked options for women who wanted quality pieces they could wear daily. Since the namesake label was launched in 2008, it's become renowned for its classic collections that emphasize craftsmanship, sustainability, and versatility. While the brand has its fair share of darling dainty items, its unique engagement ring offering has really put it on fashion people's maps over the past few years. It offers everything from yellow gold diamond rings with offset diamonds to dainty rose gold rings with rare sapphires, giving every spouse-to-be the ability to choose a piece that they'll want to wear for years to come.

Kara Yoo

History has shown us that identity isn't linear. It's constantly growing, changing, and evolving. If one jewelry brand embodies that ethos, it's Kara Yoo. The designer first became interested in jewelry when her sister taught her how to make beaded pieces as a teenager. It wasn't until she completed business and metalsmithing classes that Yoo considered evolving her passion for the craft into a full-fledged career. For so many creatives of color, it can be hard to decide whether to chase that dream, but for Yoo, her family history ultimately compelled her to take a chance.

"My parents immigrated from South Korea in the late '70s, bringing their language, customs, and heritage into our new home in Canada," she explained. "I saw them work tirelessly over the years on their businesses to succeed. Their tenacity inspired me to start my own business." That risk has largely paid off over the last 11 years. Yoo has managed to cultivate a dedicated following among the fashion crowd because of her ability to craft jewelry that is cool and reflects her experience as a first-generation Korean Canadian. With collections including references to lunar animals and Korean Taegeuk symbols, the brand gives younger generations a new way to embrace their own histories.