Icons Only: From Glastonbury to Balmoral, Barbour's Wax Jacket Is an Unlikely Fashion Icon

The Barbour wax jacket is far more than just a wet-weather staple. It’s about as British as pie and mash and beloved by everyone from the royal family to It girls at Glastonbury. Synonymous with the English country-dwelling upper classes, it’s a symbol of heritage and tradition, and over the years, its appeal has widened to make it a most unlikely fashion icon.

Barbour’s long relationship with waxed cotton began back in 1894, when Scotsman John Barbour opened a shop in the Market Place in Newcastle’s South Shields, selling practical and hard-wearing oilskins for hunting and fishing. Strictly utilitarian, the jackets featured pockets for storing cartridges, "thorn-proof" wax coating for scrambling through brambles and even large game pockets capable of storing an entire pheasant.

In 1972, Dame Margaret Barbour took over the family business, and Barbour’s golden age began. Amongst its most famous poster girls was Princess Diana, who, clad in her Barbour jacket and pearls, helped popularise the garment as a key part of the Sloane Ranger uniform. Over time, these jackets develop a shabby-chic patina, and traditionally, there is a cachet attached to a well-worn Barbour.

The late Queen Elizabeth II famously wore the Beaufort style for over 25 years, particularly around her Balmoral estate, and declined offers to replace it, preferring to have it re-waxed instead. King Charles III has also frequently been spotted sporting a Barbour jacket at multiple outdoor events, whilst Catherine, Princess of Wales, is a regular Barbour wearer. Her favourite and most worn style is the Barbour Defence Wax Jacket, but she also owns the Barbour X Alexa Chung Edith Jacket in beige.

Posh and privilege aside, the Barbour look also became fashionable via another great British institution: Glastonbury Festival. Often paired with Hunter wellies and a sequinned minidress, it served to keep legions of muddy festival-goers warm, dry and stylish. Amongst them, Lily Allen, who played the Pyramid Stage in 2007 wearing an oversized black Barbour and vintage pink dress whilst clutching a can of Strongbow, and Alexa Chung, whose long-standing love affair with Barbour jackets was honoured with a series of sold-out collaborations which began in 2013.

Today, Barbour averages around 6 to 7 collaborations per year. Recent hits include partnerships with luxury brand Erdem, streetwear extraordinaires Supreme and Scandi-cool label Ganni. Most recently, Barbour has joined forces with Brazilian brand Farm Rio, known for its vibrant, colourful prints, whilst this season will see the launch of Paul Smith Loves Barbour; the coming together of two quintessentially British fashion brands. Inspired by livestock competitions and farm shows, the collaboration takes a playful approach to country classics, with unusual shades of waxed cotton, patchwork constructions and a recurring Friesian cow motif.

How to Tell Your Beaufort from Your Beadnell

Think there’s only one Barbour wax jacket? Wrong! There are, in fact, three original styles: the Bedale, the Beaufort and the Border. All were designed by Dame Margaret Barbour and made the brand a household name in the 1980s. The collection has expanded since to include modern classics, such as the Beadnell and the Spey. They're all best-sellers, all weather-proof and all-year-round staples, subtly different in their own ways.

According to the brand, four essential elements define every Barbour wax jacket:

1. Waxed cotton, offering durability and protection
2. A corduroy collar
3. Heritage tartan lining
4. Ring pull and press studs

The OG Barbour Jackets

1. The Bedale: First introduced in 1980 and named after a rural market town in North Yorkshire, the Bedale Jacket was designed by Dame Margaret Barbour. Crafted from medium-weight 6oz thorn-proof wax cotton, its original purpose was to cater to the equestrian market, as the shorter length was ideal when riding.

2. The Beaufort: Dating back to 1983, the Beaufort takes its inspiration from French shooting jackets—note the large game pocket on the back. It’s longer than the Bedale but shorter than the Border. Older vintage Beauforts are lined with the Dress Gordon tartan (white, navy and bottle-green), whilst modern Beauforts carry the Classic Barbour tartan, based on the tartan sett from the Barbour family's original home county of Ayrshire, and features shades of brown and gold chosen to complement the wax cotton.

3. The Border: Designed as "a perfect all-weather jacket for a taller gentleman, or ideal for wearing over a suit", the original menswear style features a longer length, generous fit and lengthened sleeves. It was named to represent the land border between Scotland and England that founder John Barbour crossed in 1870 to get to North East England, where Barbour is still based.

The New Barbour Jackets

1. The Beadnell: A modern interpretation of the iconic Bedale introduced in 2010, the Beadnell is crafted from the same traditional 6oz thorn-proof wax cotton, but is cut to a slimmer silhouette and fit than its predecessor.

2. The Acorn: Cut to a slightly roomier, "boyfriend" fit, The Acorn is relaxed, comfortable and offers a minimal take on a classic waxed jacket.

3. The Highclere: Designed to traverse the line between country and city living, the Highclere is a longer, mid-length style with a detachable hood, cord collar and traditional bellows pockets.

4. The Bower: Ideal for the winter months, the Bower features hidden welted handwarmer pockets and a cosy detachable hood lined in Barbour’s signature tartan. It’s crafted from 6oz Sylkoil waxed cotton, which has a softer matte feel compared to the more traditional thorn-proof wax.

5. The Spey: Introduced into the range in 1981, the Spey was Barbour’s first fishing jacket designed to be worn with waders. It was discontinued in 1997, but was recently brought back as a shorter-length style.

How to Take Care of Your Barbour

Barbour has always manufactured its traditional waxed jackets from its homestead factory in North East England, with each jacket subjected to over 36 individual processes by skilled craftspeople. The brand holds three Royal Warrants from the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales, and is committed to extending the life of its garments.

Barbour jackets are known for their durability, but to maintain the protective waterproof properties, the brand recommends re-waxing once a year. When Barbour jackets are finished in the South Shields factory, a specific Barbour wax is used (the composition of which is a closely guarded secret). Barbour’s Repair Re-wax service allows customers to return their beloved Barbour jackets to be cleaned, repaired and re-finished. Alternatively, you can buy a tin of the brand’s signature Thornproof Dressing to re-wax your jacket yourself at home.

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