The Balmain Woman Is Ditching Her Glitzy Dresses for Cozy Knits

Balmain's fall 2025 collection marks a compelling departure from the brand's traditional opulence, embracing a more relaxed and refined aesthetic. Under Olivier Rousteing’s creative direction, the collection moves away from the iconic metallics and structured tailoring the house is known for, introducing an elegant sense of ease and sophistication. "This show is the beginning of a new era that we are building all together," the designer wrote on Instagram following the runway. Cozy knitwear, fluid draping, and luxurious wool jersey dresses dominated the runway, offering a sense of comfort and understated luxury. The collection’s soft, organic textures were contrasted with bold, sleek leather elements, from streamlined trousers to peplum jackets, infusing the looks with subtle strength.

The shift in palette was equally striking, with cool grays and muted tones replacing the signature golds and jewel tones of seasons past. This refined color scheme created an overall sense of modernity and restraint, while still maintaining the brand’s inherent sense of luxury. Accessories also played a key role, with bold zebra prints and sculptural footwear adding a contemporary edge to the collection.

This season, Balmain redefines its identity, blending comfort with high fashion in a way that feels both fresh and timeless. By embracing new textures, forms, and tones, Balmain is moving in an exciting new direction—one that speaks to a broader sense of modern elegance without sacrificing the boldness and craftsmanship that have always defined the brand.

Peplums Are Back

Love them or hate them, Balmain is remarking that peplums are here to stay. The collection featured flared silhouettes of skirts and tops that appeared to jut out of the hips—a typical shape of the once popular style from the mid-2010s. While business casual to the club slowly might be on the rise, the Balmain team is taking it one step further and asserting peplums are sure to follow.

Goodbye, Hats. Hello, Hoods.

In stark contrast to minimalist designers opting for pillbox hats this season (The Garment and Khaite both featured the structured staple), Balmain opted for sultry, soft hoots for its headwear du jour. This, no doubt, was a nod to founder Pierre Balmain's sultry '80s look and model of the time, Grace Jones, who is still a friend of the maison.

Trust-Fund Color Story

In an interview with Vogue Runway, Rousteing shared that this was the first time he had used gray mélange in his collection. He also talked about how he used soft, luxurious materials like cashmere to really bring out that cozy, swaddled feeling he was going for. The mix of those warm textures and the subtle color really helped create an elevated, comforting vibe throughout the whole collection, giving it a sense of both luxury and intimacy. Like many other houses, the shift marks a tonal departure into the realm of thoughtful minimalism (quiet luxury, anyone?).

Au Revoir, Heels

Gone are the days of towering stilettos; this season, it’s all about comfort with a dose of high fashion. Even with an abundance of cozy knits, oversize sweaters, and wrapped-up shawls keeping the look warm and snug, the footwear still steals the spotlight. Whether it’s the structured, architectural designs or the edgy, chic vibe of the boots, these shoes aren’t just functional—they’re a key part of the entire ensemble, proving that comfort and style can walk hand in hand.

Low-Key Beauty

Just as the garments were a tonal departure from typical Balmain, another effort in rebranding came in the form of the collection's chosen runway beauty. As the Balmain woman is shifting into someone who's considering a more laid-back, cozy lifestyle, minimalist hair and makeup took center stage. While a red lip and a face beat to the gods is always a great idea in theory, the modern woman in a skincare-first age is more likely to embrace her natural beauty. Slightly flushed cheeks, naturally textured hair, and dewy, skin-like makeup finishes were all A+ choices.