Chanel Returns to Coco's House Codes for Fall 2025

The fall/winter 2025 Chanel show marked the first ready-to-wear collection since Matthieu Blazy's appointment as artistic director was announced in December, although the industry is still eagerly awaiting the designer's debut later this year. This collection was presented by the in-house Creation Studio, which centered the designs on Coco Chanel's most iconic house codes. "The bow, the ribbon, the pearl, and the flower," the show notes read. "The collection revisits some of the most cherished House signatures."

The runway show was a return to the core DNA of the 115-year-old maison. Bows were executed in sheer organza, as details on delicate sock boots (a future cult buy), and as new bag silhouettes. A ribbon inspired the set at the Grand Palais, which was outfitted with a giant sculpture of a winding black ribbon. Pearls were reimagined in oversize proportions in the form of necklaces, bracelets, and bags. Camellia flowers were affixed to tweed suits and two-tone cardigans. Just as the Creation Studio goes back to the French fashion house's roots, it begs the question of how Blazy will reimagine the archives for future seasons when he presents his much-anticipated first collection in the coming months. Here, read more on the Chanel F/W 25 runway show.

Inside the Grand Palais

After years of renovation, Chanel returned to the Grand Palais in Paris last October for its S/S 25 collection and again brought its runway show to the iconic, sun-drenched space beneath the glass roof of the beaux arts landmark. This season, a giant sculptural black ribbon by Willo Perron was installed inside. The invitations also arrived with a delicate bow tucked inside, a nod to house signatures, including ribbons and bows, that were a point of inspiration in the collection.

The Front Row

Ambassadors and friends of the house alike arrived to watch the fall/winter 2025 show wearing head-to-toe Chanel. Among the star-studded front row were Dakota Fanning in a coordinating gold leather pantsuit; Tyla in a matching top, skirt, and jacket finished in lilac; Charlotte Casiraghi in a tweed jumpsuit; and Who What Wear cover star Simone Ashley in a midriff-baring skirt suit.

Pictured: Dakota Fanning

Pictured: Tyla

Pictured: Charlotte Casiraghi

Pictured: Simone Ashley

Big Bows and Pearls! Tweed Suits and a Very Coco Palette!

The Creation Studio distilled Chanel's most iconic house codes for the fall/winter 2025 collection. New riffs on bows, ribbons, pearls, and tweed felt core to the maison. The palette, too, was quintessential Coco Chanel, as shades of black, white, cream, pink, and burgundy hit the runway at the Grand Palais. The show notes explained that these iconic motifs were interpreted through "plays on scales of size, length, and proportion." This was apparent in the use of everything from oversize bows to shoes designed with a single pearl as the heel.

Similar to the last ready-to-wear runway show for spring/summer 2025, the collection felt airy and light. Looks with delicate layers of chiffon and organza floated down the runway. A crossbody bag giving the impression of an oversize pearl necklace was playful and fun. A duo of models walking down the runway in coordinating looks added a touch of whimsy. It was all very Chanel and very Coco.

The Chanel 25 Bag

While there were plenty of new handbags that made their debut on the runway, the reappearance of the Chanel 25 is especially noteworthy. The Chanel 25 bag was first introduced in the brand's Cruise 2025 collection and is set to be one of the biggest bag launches of the year when it hits stores this March. Dua Lipa is also attached as the face of the Chanel 25 handbag campaign. The quilted bag is designed with a slouchy shape, chain straps, cargo pockets, and CC motifs throughout. It again hit the fall/winter 2025 runway, proving that it's a future classic for the fashion house.