Brocade, Lace, and Ruffles: The Dior Show Envisioned Modern Bourgeois Style

In Virginia Woolf's 1928 novel Orlando, the titular character is an Elizabethan boy who shape-shifts halfway through the story into the opposite gender. Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri had the title affixed to her mood board when crafting her fall 2025 collection for the French house, in particular the ways in which the novel explores themes of transformation and metamorphosis. For the designer, it's a reminder of the transformative power of clothing and her interest in the evolution of costume throughout the ages.

The collection hit on references to eras past, from the antique to the nouveau and the gender-fluid to the romantic. Overall, though, it confirmed a major trend we've been charting since last season: the modern bourgeoisie. It's a new chapter of modern maximalism defined by opulent prints, rich textures, and exuberant silhouettes that came through via brocade jackets, embroidered corsetry, iridescent outerwear, and intricate lace in Dior's collection. There were, of course, plenty of celebrity sightings to buzz about off the runway. Ahead, explore the key takeaways from the Dior fall/winter 2025 show.

Familiar Faces

Had it not been for the clothes on the runway inside, the scene outside of the Dior show could have doubled as any red carpet in Hollywood during award season purely based on the number of A-listers in attendance. Droves of familiar faces from throughout the film and music industries arrived in full Dior looks, including Natalie Portman in a crisp shirtdress and knee-high boots, The White Lotus's Michelle Monaghan in a classically Dior tweed A-line skirt suit, Afrobeats singer-songwriter Tems in a relaxed shirt and Parisian beret, and Lucy Hale in leather opera gloves and a Lady Bag.

Pictured: Natalie Portman

Pictured: Elle Macpherson

Pictured: Michelle Monaghan

Pictured: Tems

Pictured: Lucy Hale

Pictured: Lily James

The Modern-Day Bourgeoisie

Last season, we began to see the rise in a trend we're calling the modern-day bourgeoisie. Defined by rich textures and opulent tones, this mode of dressing signals that collectively, we're moving from an era of staunch minimalism to a new chapter of modern maximalism. The Dior show was defined by this exact motif and featured intricate brocade jackets, embroidered corsetry, iridescent outerwear, and even pantaloons paired with tall boots that signal a much more grandiose and ornate approach to style for fall 2025.

A Very Orlando-esque Wardrobe

Fashion as a tool of metamorphosis is a theme that the designer explored in this collection, and nowhere is that more visible than in these collared ruffle shirts that, according to the show notes, are inspired by the eponymous character of Virginia Woolf’s novel Orlando, a wealthy nobleman who changes gender halfway through the novel and is able to reflect upon the experiences of each one. For Grazia Chiuri, the white shirt is a "founding element of an outfit freed from gender stereotypes," according to the show notes. The collection brought forth a take on the universally appreciated staple that was ruffled and high-necked. Therefore, Dior's shirting isn't a symbol of a single gender identity but rather a reminder of the transformative power of clothing.

The Wrong Jacket Theory, Cont.

It's always a validating feeling when we can spot the roots of an emerging trend take hold and prove its staying power. For spring, designers played with the idea of the "wrong jacket theory" putting sporty anoraks with looks that would otherwise not call for such technical gear, like draped skirts and sequin dresses. It seems from this Dior collection that the styling idea will be staying put into next season. Here, technical all-weather jackets were styled atop delicate lace and ruffled under-layers that prove the right jacket is, well, the wrong one.

Hourglass Dresses

Hourglass silhouettes are already shaping up to be a major theme for fall, with peplum hems and nipped-in waistlines defining much of the tailoring we've seen thus far on the fall 2025 runways. At Dior, that came through via a series of minidresses with perfectly sculpted hourglass shapes. They featured either cap sleeves or skinny straps but all had the same peplum waists and intricate lace embroidery along the edges. Maxis may still be the prevailing hemline of the moment, but these structured minis are an especially fresh way to wear the shorter length.