Sarah Burton's First Givenchy Collection Brings a Woman's Touch to the Historic Atelier

Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy began not with a sketch but with a discovery. During the renovation of Hubert de Givenchy’s first maison in Paris, a hidden cupboard was uncovered, revealing a forgotten piece of the brand’s history. Inside were calico patterns from his 1952 debut collection, which he had once shared with an audience that visited his atelier. Well-preserved relics from the house’s origins couldn’t have dropped into the lap of Sarah Burton at a better time, as she was preparing for her debut collection with the brand upon their discovery. For Burton, this wasn’t just a stroke of fashion history; it was a call to return to the essence of Givenchy itself. She approached her first collection with a singular focus: the atelier, the cut, and the innate elegance that has defined the brand for over 70 years.

The result is a collection that reimagines the Givenchy woman in a way that feels both powerful and intimate. Silhouettes echo the precision of couture while embracing fluidity and movement. Tailoring is sculpted yet sensual, merging masculine structure with feminine ease. There’s an instinctive push and pull—razor-sharp coats and cocooned jackets, micro-cut lace dresses and deconstructed shirting—that reflects the modern woman in all her contradictions. With this collection, Burton doesn’t just nod to Givenchy’s past; she reinterprets it for a woman who is entirely of the present.

Sarah Burton's Homage to Hubert de Givenchy

In stepping into her new role at this fashion house, Sarah Burton does not have the desire to create a new Givenchy but to go back to the house’s origins. She shared with the press, “To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning. To me, that’s about the atelier. It’s the heart and soul of Givenchy.” Honoring the modern woman while remembering where she came from couldn’t have been done better by anyone but Burton. She brings a woman's perspective to Givenchy—and fashion in general—at a time when so few female creative directors are leading big brands.

The Female Gaze

This is a collection that embraces a powerful femininity that is part of the origin story of the brand, designed for the incredible women who wear it. Hourglass shapes, larger-than-life tulle, and the occasional floral motif are paired with unexpected flashes of skin—a bodysuit here, a spotlight on long legs there. The Givenchy woman is in control of her allure, choosing when and how to reveal herself. Burton's words on the matter: “I want to address everything about modern women. Strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, feeling powerful or very sexy. All of it.” She pays homage to the atelier's origins through a distinctly female POV.

1952 Meets Today

When a trove of Hubert de Givenchy’s original patterns from 1952 was unexpectedly unearthed, it was more than just a historical artifact—it became the foundation of Burton’s debut. Honoring the house’s roots, she reinterpreted classic codes with a contemporary sharpness. The cocoon-like shapes of the '50s are streamlined for today’s woman, their volumes controlled but never restrained. It’s a seamless conversation between past and present, proving that true elegance never goes out of style.

An Oscar-Worthy Nomination for Best Dress

Elle Fanning set the tone for Sarah Burton’s Givenchy era before the collection even hit the runway. At the 97th Academy Awards, she arrived in a breathtaking white gown—the first custom couture piece designed by Burton for the house. Like the rest of the collection, it was also inspired by one of the sketches found in Hubert de Givenchy's first collection from 1952. The look, crafted from French Lyon lace and silk tulle, was cinched with a dramatic black bow, a delicate yet commanding detail that felt instantly iconic. Fast-forward to the debut collection, and one dress in particular echoes that same cinematic grandeur. A billowing white tulle gown, reminiscent of bridal couture, floats down the runway with an air of effortless romance. Just like Fanning’s Oscars moment, it proves that Burton’s Givenchy is rooted in history but destined for the spotlight.