From Subdued to Overstimulated: Glenn Martens Makes His RTW Debut at Margiela

To the sound of a 61-piece children's orchestra (dressed in dramatically oversize Maison Margiela tuxedos) playing perfectly imperfect renditions of "Symphony No. 40" and Beethoven's "Moonlight Sonata," Glenn Martens debuted his first coed ready-to-wear collection for the Belgian fashion house during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation arrived just three months after the former Diesel creative director showcased his inaugural Artisanal (otherwise referred to as haute couture) collection for Margiela back in July. That collection wasn't for the faint of heart, but at a brand like this one, it was never supposed to be immediately digestible. It was the kind of couture offering that makes you think, sending chills down your spine once you do.

For spring/summer 2026, though, Martens took a simpler approach, continuing some themes from his couture debut but executing them in a much more pared-back and even practical fashion. See: Margiela-ized basics like trench coats, slip dresses, and leather jackets. He started the show with wearable silhouettes made of denim and leather—all of which were accented with four-stitch mouthpieces resembling the brand's signature non-logo—before eventually leading showgoers toward more experimental designs. Classic Margiela staples made their return, including Future high-top sneakers that got a modern update for 2026 as well as the Tabi Claw, which was first seen in the Artisanal 2025 collection but has now made its RTW debut with a futuristic plexiglass wedge heel. (The style was worn by Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner at the show.) A new version of the Box Bag is also coming soon with a softer, slouchier look that's sure to become a staple come spring.

For more on Martens's first Maison Margiela ready-to-wear collection, keep scrolling.

Pieces for Everyone

Like the music playing, there were moments of calm serenity throughout the designer's sartorial unveiling this season as well as louder, more stimulating components. According to a press release, "concepts and proposals for real life" were the main focus. Tailoring was presented in a handful of different ways in denim and classic wool and always with touches that feel inherently Margiela. A white button-down shirt was styled with jeans and boots, and a slip dress with tiny lace details was worn with a leather motorcycle jacket. The first 25 or so looks saw a muted color palette, and then suddenly, there was a switch. As the collection slowly approached a crescendo, vibrant colors and patterns began to appear on Martens's models. Dresses with uneven hems were printed with clashing floral patterns that were designed to look like peeling 16th-century wallpaper (a concept first introduced in the F/W 25 Artisanal collection), and "plasticisation," another design technique from couture that was used to make statuesque bodices out of tape, was seen throughout the latter half of the show. The collection as a whole had moments for everyone, from subdued basics done the Margiela way to gowns designed to evoke a range of emotions.

Margiela Mouthpieces

The orchestra's conductor wore a Maison Margiela suit adorned on the upper back with the house's signature four-stitch logo, a motif that showed up on every single one of the models who walked the show—but not in the way anyone could have expected. Whether it's on a sweater or a jacket, we usually see the symbol in the same place: the back of the neck. For spring/summer 2026, though, it was seen in the form of surgical-looking mouthpieces. According to the show notes, they were used to give models a "uniformity of expression" in order to continue Maison Margiela's long-standing emphasis on anonymity.

In With the Slouchy Bag

There's a new bag coming to the Belgian house, and it's a hit in the making. A new take on the Box Bag, the slouchy shoulder bag has sharp edges that give it a unique look. Even better, it features an ornamental metal trim in brushed silver, giving the bag an antique appeal in today's sea of modern shapes. According to the show notes, the Box Bag can instantly be made into a clutch by tucking the straps inside.

Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner Take the Front Row

It was a great day for celebrity sightings in Paris on Saturday. Meghan Markle made her Paris Fashion Week debut at Balenciaga, Ina Garten and her Kelly sat front row at Hermès, and Kardashian and Jenner reunited at Maison Margiela. Kardashian, who debuted her new pixie cut at Alaïa earlier that day, donned a gray trench coat, a collar necklace, and leather boots with a PVC heel. Her younger sister's look was a little less subdued, and she wore a sheer camisole and matching tights made of paper (!), which were tucked into a pair of sharp Tabi wedges.