Introducing Haider Ackermann's Vision for Tom Ford

The time has come for Haider Ackermann to showcase his vision for Tom Ford, the American fashion brand he took over last September. (Ackermann replaced former Creative Director Peter Hawkings, who only held the position for one year following Ford's departure.) Sure, there have been a few sneak peeks in the form of custom looks for Timothée Chalamet, but I speak for everyone in fashion when I say I need more.

On Wednesday at 19:00 Paris time (1:00 p.m. in New York), the former Berluti designer and current Canada Goose creative director held his first runway show since joining Tom Ford. The space was dark and dimly lit and had various paths for models like Vittoria Ceretti, Mona Tougaard, Alex Consani, Lulu Tenney, and Sara Caballero to travel down while donning a mix of beautifully tailored suits (Ackermann's specialty), gowns, and separates in vibrant pastels, neon shades, and futuristic neutrals like navy and gray. In a press release, he talks about this balance, which can be seen throughout the 55-piece collection. "Entering the house that Mr. Tom Ford built, I was drawn to the man himself, whose personality reverberates through everything he envisioned," Ackermann wrote. "He is nightlife. I am the morning after: This is where our dance begins."

In the end, the designer found a way to hold onto Ford's sexy, sultry image while simultaneously marking the beginning of a new era for the brand that's definitively his. Following the finale walk, fashion's elite rose to their feet, giving the Colombian creative a much-deserved standing ovation. Even Ford himself stood, smiling and looking on proudly. When the two designers—Tom Ford's past and present—embraced, the fashion world knew it was a success.

For more on Ackermann's vision for Tom Ford, keep scrolling.

Only the Coolest Attendees

At the show was Tom Ford himself, hugging Ackermann when he stepped out from behind an industrial mirrored curtain and showing clear signs of approval for the designer's debut collection. Kate Moss, Anna Wintour, Doechii, Lou Doillon, Law Roach, Marisa Berenson, and Karen Elson were all inside witnessing the historic first collection by Ackermann unveiling itself.

Tailoring of the Future

If Ackermann's known for anything in the industry, it's his razor-sharp tailoring, an elite-level skill he's flexed in every fashion role he's held, including the newest (and most high-profile) one. In his debut collection for Tom Ford, the designer put his tailoring expertise to use in various forms—double-breasted suits sleek enough to hammer the final nail in relaxed, baggy suiting's coffin as well as less formal matching sets and outerwear. Let's get one thing clear: Tom Ford shoppers are guaranteed to look refined and tailored come fall 2025.

A 24-7 Wardrobe

From a classic Tom Ford robe to a wedding-worthy white gown, Ackermann's first collection for the American house included at least one look for every occasion life throws at you. There were suits for the office, elevated elastic-waistband joggers for last-minute errands, pastel gowns for galas, micro minidresses for a night out, and even leather sets fit for the back of a vintage Harley. Whatever's on the Tom Ford woman's or man's agenda, Ackermann's F/W 25 offering has their outfit checked off.

Double Trouble

Midway through the show, two of this decade's most prolific and recognizable supermodels—Tougaard and Ceretti—took to the runway as a pair, with Tougaard a step ahead in a low-cut tuxedo-style gown and Ceretti slightly behind in a strapless dress with a delicate white brooch and thigh-high slit.