Welcome to the Gen Z Mood, where I—Who What Wear UK's 27-year-old social media editor—keep you updated with my mood of the month and the most exciting things I’ve spotted on the scroll. I'm always looking for new and thrifty ways to shop trends, and I'm taking you with me.
My latest obsession, this Mode Mischief two piece.
The Mood: Shopping Small
We all know it’s been a small-brand-summer, the warmer months and sun-drenched photodumps have proved there’s nothing celebrities like Olivia Dean, Dua Lipa or Kendall Jenner love more than an under-the-radar find. And, beyond the realms of celebrity, the most stylish people I follow online always seem to possess a unique piece in their collection, something cool that spikes my intrigue. It could be a crochet bonnet with a unique trim, or simple tank top that seems to have the perfect boat neck neckline. But no matter what detail has lured me in, my instinct is always to hunt it down.
Singer Olivia Dean wears London-based small brand AYM Studios.
And, usually, after much scrolling, a new, independent small brand is added to my tally (that or I give up after reading the “Thanks, I found it in a vintage shop in Milan” comments *sighs*.) So, after a summer of research, and plenty of autumn outfit inspiration to motivate my spending, it’s time to put my notes folder of small brands to good use.
Enter: This month’s Gen Z mood. The mood is shopping small, because if there is anything that will get me more excited for autumn than suede, jeans, and my leather jacket collection, it’s a dose of small unique pieces, that bring a certain ‘je ne se quoi’ to my ‘fits. Some I’ve found deep in the doomscroll, others from tagged photos, and some I’ve even stumbled upon on the street (how retro).
Whether you’re searching for cute two pieces for ‘out out’ season, knitted accessories for the cooler months or just want to take a more considered approach to the purchases you make this autumn, there is something for everyone. Keep scrolling for my list of small, independent brands to put on your radar this autumn.
Kendall Jenner wears London-based small brand Susamusa.
CLÒIMH
You might follow Scottish-born, Amsterdam-based influencer Hollie Mercedes for her cool, scandi-inspired outfits, or her techy hiking tips, or even her effortless street style looks but, her most recent venture might just top them all. Last year, Hollie launched her knitwear brand, CLÒIMH. Named after the Gaelic term for ‘wool’, CLÒIMH is a small knitwear brand who use 100% natural yarns in their designs (which always seem to be ahead of the trends).
Last year I fell in love with the brand’s soft wool mini scarf design, and despite the heatwave this summer, after spotting how cute the knitted triangle bonnet looked on the streets of Copenhagen Fashion Week, I knew I needed to check it out (you can head to Selfridges where the brand is stocked for a nose). Last year’s first launch felt like the perfect knitwear accessory capsule for winter so my notifications are on for October 6th when the brand launches its second A/W collection and if you can’t wait till then keep your eyes peeled for some exciting collaborations launching for the brand this month.
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AYM STUDIO
At this point, miss Olivia Dean could sell me on just about anything. First it was her album, then the Susamusa viral polka dot skirt. But, most recently, after spotting the singer in a gorgeous butter yellow drop waist dress (pictured above) at Wimbledon, it’s AYM Studio. If you’re into your simple silhouettes, this UK-based brand is for you. One of my favourite things about shopping small is finding brands who do one thing *so* well.
For AYM Studio it is their heavy weight jersey fabrications married with romantic designs. I recently wore their Cammie dress to a wedding and it couldn’t have been more perfect. It was super soft and the heavy weight to this dress means you’re not doubting the quality for a second, plus it has pockets, which is always a win. They’ve just released their first ever jumpsuit, in their GRS-certified recycled polyester fabrication and if I were you, I’d bookmark it for the autumn (before it sells out!)
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EDIE PARKER
Frilly knicker clutches, tulip bags and mother of pearl model lighters?? It might sound like the floor of a freaky after, but actually it’s the wonderful chaos that is Edie Parker’s new in page. The NYC-based lifestyle and accessories brand are known for their original accessory designs that often go viral. It’s not hard to see why the internet love them, and I’m firmly in their camp. Looking for something special to add a little intrigue to your wedding guest outfit? Or want to thrill the friends you meet on a night out with your fuzzy clutch bag (external lighter holder included) then scroll on check out their new pieces below.
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MODE MISCHIEF
You know those brands you scroll past on social media and just have to follow because even from one pic, you know you’re going to love the vibe of their pieces. That’s Mode Mischief for me. I first saw the brand on my friend’s instagram story and instantly inquired about the corseted puff sleeve top I’d spotted. The brand sets out to “re-envision basic wardrobe staples with a touch of ‘mischief’”. Basically think of the coolest female movie characters of all time, they are who’s wearing Mode Mischief. The Zip Long Sleeve Shirt is so Kat Stratford from 10 things I hate about you, and Margot Tenenbaum would *so* wear a Jane Shift Dress. I think Mode is the perfect brand when the dress code says fancy, but you want to be comfy and also look cool. Find a few of my favourite pieces below!
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KNOT NICE
I’ve been following Knot Nice for years. The crochet and knitwear brand was founded by Megan Lily a couple of years ago and has soared on social media in that time. Between her custom designs and cult pieces, this is my go-to for cool, crochet inspiration. The Knot Nice feed is perfect Pinterest fodder and I find myself saving down the designs for inspiration as much as liking the cute new-in pieces that always feel on trend. There’s something so special about owning a custom piece of anything and when it comes to knitwear, the quality of Knot Nice pieces stands the test of time.
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HAIRY MARY
We can’t talk about London-based small brands without mentioning Hairy Mary. Imagine if Charl XCX, Tilda Swinton and Billy Connolly had a baby born for the runways of LFW, that’s Hairy Mary. Founder Rosie Barton makes sure every piece is a party, (each design is hand-made by Rosie herself, or her team). And every celtic-inspired design comes with a wink in the form of some kind of fun fabrication, whether it’s lace, frills, tartan or a dead-stock tablecloth. A few of my favourites include the Hairy chest vest, the tarty tracksuit and maybe all of Barton’s kilt collection. If you’re looking for unique pieces that will make everyone in the pub ask “where did you get that from?” I implore you to put Hairy Mary on your radar this autumn.
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HILDA
It’s safe to say my screen time seriously out weighs in-person shopping time these days, but, when I do venture onto the high street I’m always looking out for new independent store to peruse. So when I came across Hilda in Stoke Newington right on my door step, I was thrilled not only by the delicately put together rails of vintage but also by Hilda herself who is always down for a chit chat about fun fashion things. Hilda’s genuine interest in what’s trending and what’s considered timeless is reflected in her selection of vintage and the small contemporary ready-to-wear brands she also stocks. If you’re heading to North London her shop is truly one to visit and make sure to follow Hilda’s on Instagram for stock updates and shop news.
SLOE VINTAGE
As autumn approaches, so does my favourite time to shop big coats and cool jackets. And, in my opinion, if you’re looking for the best of these, you have to be looking through the vintage rails. Whether you’re after a Penny Lane fur-trimmed coat or a black leather bomber a visit to Sloe Vintage in Brixton village is a must. You may have spotted their designer finds on TikTok or happen to stumble upon their community open mic nights hosted in Brixton Village but Sloe are curating more than just vintage, with a growing community on IG and TikTok who often attend their fun zine workshops and poetry nights. Follow their socials to keep updated on their latest drops and scroll on for my picks from their site right now.
URTE KAT
Doechii wasn’t my introduction to Urte Kat, but it is pretty cool she was spotted in a full look from the Lithuanian-based brand this summer, lucky girl cap and all. I found Urte Kat on the scroll, a fashion influencer I follow was wearing their studded spiral trousers and I saved the TikTok immediately. On further inspection Urtekat is a fan-favourite among stylish Gen Zs like Beebadoobee and PinkPantheress, and it’s not hard to see why (or see how they got on Doechii’s radar this year.) Their designs feel straight off the streets of East London with a European edge, the nod to fun micro trends in their patterns is a trademark for the brand. Dresses with ties, belt boots, hooded vests, it’s all fresh-feeling and looks destined for the streets. See my selects from their latest drop below.
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AFENDS
When it comes to the benefits of shopping small, one of the biggest is it usually means you’re supporting sustainable brands and including more climate conscious products in your wardrobe. That sure is the case when it comes to Australian-founded surf brand Afends. They’re on my list because their viral seersucker Asta maxi dress is one of my favourites, but along with this classic silhouette they also stock great tees and tanks. They pride themselves on their quality basics made from organic and recycled cotton which makes them extra cosy, (the kind of hoodies and t-shirts you want to throw on after a long day at the beach!) Scroll on for a few of my picks from their recent drop.
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RUBY YAZMIN
Another thing I love about following and shopping small brands is that they don’t have to be churning out hundreds of styles a season, and instead stick to curated capsules that align with their brand vision. For new small brand Ruby Yazmin, this is certainly the case. Launching with four pieces in their signature tartan print, the brand have got behind the styles they’ve seen pick up traction online and committed to doing a few pieces really well. I recently tried on their best selling Stevie dress and loved the pretty cut of it’s skirt, (and the bold check print, obviously).
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