Lately, I have noticed a serious shift. It's like there's something in the air, and it isn't just a change in temperature. The last few years, I think fashion has been divided (generally speaking) into two camps: the classicists that were early adopters of quiet luxury—they pine for Phoebe Philo-era Celine, wear a uniform of The Row-inspired timeless, textured pieces in a monochromatic palette, and have an Instagram algorithm that pushes Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Sofia Richie over all else. The other camp is filled with the more experimental dressers amongst us. More likely to shop secondhand, adopt a TikTok "core" trend or be Y2K-obsessed, this crowd might site Alexa Chung as being their best dressed celeb, and tell themselves they're "so Julia" when getting ready in the morning.
But for the first time, there's a trend that I think will appeal to both parties. It blends the timeless elegance of the quiet luxury camp, but has the vintage appeal of the other. Enter: Demure Dressing. If you're not familiar, stay with me. Not to be confused with the "very demure, very mindful" viral TikTok meme Jools Lebron from 2024, demure dressing is a term we've coined for the sudden surge in channeling the prim and proper styles that are reminiscent of the '50s or '90s. Think skirt suits over those with trousers—maybe with a mini skirt, but also those with a knee-length finish. The blazers are often collarless, have a curved silhouette that cinches in the waist, or could be styled with a belt to give the same effect—regardless, this is a totally different approach to tailoring to the more '80s power suit that's dominated the last decade. Worn with low denier tights, sling-backs, polo necks and pearls, this is a style that was adorned by the Kennedys: with Jackie Kennedy-Onasis in the '50s and '60s as well as Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in the '90s.
I first realised this trend was about to be huge on a recent trip to New York, where I saw many women on their way to work dressed exactly like this. Think full-length double-breasted wool coats with a little structure in the shoulders, which were worn unbuttoned and dramatically flew open with every breeze. Oversized clutch bags and top-handle 'Lady' bags were draped on their forearms, with long leather gloves on their hands. Then I saw not one, not two but three pillbox hats perched purposefully, yet quite effortlessly, on neatly combed hair.
And it's the same on the spring/summer 2026 runways, as well as on my Instagram feed. Content creators like Christie Tyler, The Pouf and Marilyn NK have all been early adopters demure dressing, and designers like Fendi, Gucci and Calvin Klein also showcased collections for next spring with this same aesthetic.
If you loved the 'Frazzled English Woman' era inspired by Miu Miiu's autumn/winter 2023 collection, I think you'll enjoy this trend, too. Similar in style, but a little more 'put together', demure dressing feels like a progression from the preppy, playful Miu Miu school girl aesthetic, but can still have a sense of irony and fun. It feels professional and purposeful, yet surprisingly quite sexy and cool. If you don't want it to feel too 'lady-like' and conservative, I suggest either opting for a two-piece with a mini skirt, which could be styled with knee-high socks or low denier tights, or go for the knee-length skirt but wear it with a cardigan on the top that only has a button or two done up, showing a little skin on the chest and at the waist.
Regardless of whether you wish to channel the timeless elegance of Mad Men's Betty Draper or The Parent Trap's Meredith Blake, just know this is about to be huge. And I've put together the key items you need in your capsule wardrobe to achieve it.
5 Items You Need to Get the 'Demure Dressing' Look
1. Collarless Blazer
Style Notes: When it comes to conquering demure dressing, the collarless blazer is really doing the work. I might be biased as I wore one on my wedding day, but there’s something about the lack of lapel that makes this streamlined silhouette simply so chic. Wear it buttoned up as a top (especially great with statement earrings), or with a polo neck below for extra warmth.
SHOP COLLARLESS BLAZERS
2. Pillbox Hat
Style Notes: When I was in New York a few weeks back and saw this trend on the best dressed women on the street, the pillbox hat was the commonality for those looks that really stood out. It’s not so much that it’s practical by keeping your head warm, but more a finishing touch. When paired with pearl jewellery and a high neck, this is the best way to complete the look.
SHOP PILLBOX HATS
3. Knee-Length Skirt
Style Notes: Hang up the minis, put away the midi and maxi skirts, right now it’s all about the knee-length. In summer, many of us were wearing sheer versions with a straight silhouette, whilst this season you can definitely rewear these, especially with a pair of low denier or white tights below, I also suggest a two-piece with a matching jacket. Wool, linen or cotton in a black, beige or grey will enable most wear—wear them together or apart—but a check, tweed or gingham version hit the mark, too.
SHOP KNEE-LENGTH SKIRTS
4. Top Handle Bag
Style Notes: Granted, top handle bags may be less comfortable to carry, but they're a core accessory to the demure dressing trend. Because 'ladylike' dressers needs a 'Lady' style bag! A timeless style that works for evening as well as daytime occasions (so long as you don't need a laptop with you), if you're going to invest in a luxury one, note nobody does it better than Jil Sander or Mansur Gavriel.
SHOP TOP HANDLE BAGS
5. Slingback Kitten Heels
Style Notes: Writing this piece, I’ve thought a lot about the crossover of styles from those seen in the ‘50s and the ‘90s. Which is ironic, because as an era they couldn’t be more opposing culturally. But the slingback is a relic of footwear that both decades share. Deliciously pointed, square-toed and with a small heel, be it kitten height or a thicker block, nothing feels more poised and proper than shoes like this.
SHOP SLINGBACK SHOES
SHOP MORE 'DEMURE' ITEMS
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