Suddenly, Every Cool Person I Know Is Geotagging This Small Beach Town—Here's My Guide

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Sandy beaches, laid-back towns, a rich culinary and artisanal culture, and the sheer proximity to the U.S.—I don't need to spell out all the reasons why it's a good idea to book a vacation in Mexico, so let's just agree that the list of draws is lengthy. Of course, the next question is where to go, and there seems to be a singular answer among my most in-the-know friends right now: Puerto Escondido. Beach towns are aplenty in Mexico, but few have the tight-knit feel that Puerto Escondido does. Situated on the Pacific coast in the state of Oaxaca, it's a far cry from the throngs of tourists and large-scale resorts in areas like Cancún and Cabo San Lucas, which is naturally part of the draw. In fact, "untouched" is how celebrity and VIP stylist Coco Schiffer describes it after visiting for the first time last year as part of a brand trip with Artless Forever. "You can't see many hotels or properties from the main roads, and it takes a bit of driving before you hit them. However, once you make it to the properties, the architecture and design is unparalleled. Many are built to blend into the natural environment, making it a truly special experience," she says.

Surfers have been making the trek here for decades to chase its legendary waves, and while its roots as a rustic surf town can certainly still be felt, it's taking on a more grown-up feel these days with the arrival of several design-forward hotels, a burgeoning culinary scene, modern and contemporary art outposts, and—perhaps most notably—nonstop flights from the U.S. (United Airlines is adding routes to begin this spring, and it's only a matter of time until others follow suit.) Vogue, Condé Nast Traveler, and the Michelin Guide have all taken notice recently too, with the latter doling out its esteemed Michelin Keys to several new hotels in 2024.

"I first visited Puerto Escondido in the ’90s with my parents, back when it was truly untouched—just endless beaches, a handful of surf shacks, and an energy that felt completely undiscovered," New York-based brand consultant Osmund Allenberg shares. "What makes PE so special is that, despite its evolution, it hasn’t lost its soul. The boutique hotels feel personal, never commercial. The restaurants are thoughtful, never overproduced. And there’s this creative energy—people come not just to visit, but to stay. Even when you know exactly where you’re going, it still feels like a secret.

In Puerto Escondido, you're here for the beach, but if you can peel yourself away long enough, a day trip to Casa Wabi is in order. The art foundation is less of a traditional museum and more of an artist retreat and cultural center. Of course, no trip is complete without lots of time in and around the water—surfing, fishing, whale watching, and beachside horseback riding are all on the menu for a serene getaway here. As for where you'll want to stay, a new crop of boutique hotels has emerged to highlight sustainability and modern Mexican design, and the luxury options are simple yet stylish. With that, I'm taking the opportunity to curate my ultimate guide to the Oaxacan surf town, including everything from the fashion person adored boutique hotel that's probably already on your Pinterest board to the best beaches, mezcal bar, surf school, and so much more.

Where to Stay

Casa TO is so striking you'd be forgiven for thinking it looks AI generated. The brutalist architecture is defined by exposed cement and an open-plan design with semicircles that look like they were scooped out of the foundation. In other words, it's a Pinterest-board fantasy come to life. The project is a brainchild of renowned architect Ludwig Godefroy and a celebration of various Mexican artisans and design studios. With just nine suites and only its on-site bar Glou Glou, the retreat is about as low-key as it gets—just you and your immersive surroundings.

"This is Puerto Escondido at its most effortless," Allenberg describes of Casona Sforza. The boutique hotel is one of a few select Mexican hotels to receive a Michelin Key in the guide's first iteration of the award, which is a new category rolled out in 2024 to recognize excellence in design, service, character, and attention to detail. Currently, only 13 countries have this distinction, and Mexico is one of them with Casona Sforza. As you'll come to realize, many of the hotels here blend nature and design seamlessly, and the signature curved rattan archways that give the whole property a bohemian aesthetic are one of the best examples. "Mornings spent on a private terrace overlooking the ocean, afternoons moving at their own pace, and evenings sipping mezcal under the stars—it’s a sanctuary in the best way," Allenberg continues, calling out that the service, in particular, is what makes the entire stay feel seamless. "It’s everything you want from PE without any unnecessary fuss."

Sustainability meets modern design at Terrestre, an immersive retreat of 14 villas with an on-site hammam and private beach. It comes as Wholesale Replica Bag addition to Grupo Habita's family of lifestyle hotels, which is essentially a short list of the best of the best in design and hospitality throughout the country. Perhaps most impressively, the hotel operates completely off the grid using 100% solar power and invites guests to reconnect with nature throughout their stay. "The modernized off-grid concept forces you to be present, which is part of its appeal," Allenberg shares. "The earthen architecture and private plunge pools at night create a surreal, dreamlike experience. It’s beautifully executed but requires a certain mindset—perfect for a wellness reset." An open-air restaurant, a circular pool, and an immersive spa are what you'll find at this sophisticated yet simple hotel.

Where to Dine

Don't let its unpretentious exterior fool you, Cobarde is one of the most exciting culinary additions to Puerto Escondido's growing lineup of more "mature" options. On the outside, it's a rustic bar pouring up small-batch mezcal you won't easily find elsewhere, and to an extent it's a perfect spot to grab a nightcap. But sit down for dinner here and you might just be blown away by the traditional Mexican dishes that are done in a very modern, elevated way. "The chef has done an incredible job of combining unexpected flavors, without compromising the food to want to be trendy in a forced way," Allenberg shares. "The ambiance is moody and intimate, the kind of place that feels like a secret but is filled with people who seem to just know. It’s the kind of place where dinner seamlessly transitions into late-night drinks, and every moment feels unforced. Even if you’ve been before, it still feels like a discovery."

An omakase restaurant isn't the first place you'd expect to find in a traditional surf town, but then again, Kakurega Omakase isn't quite so traditional either. Chef Keisuke Harada serves up cuts of fish that are exclusively caught in the local area that's set underneath a palapa roof in the Oaxacan jungle next to the stylish Hotel Escondido. "It has very limited seating, and the chef only uses the most local fresh fish," brand consultant Sydney Schiff says. "The cuisine was out of this world." She also suggests stopping by the mezcal distillery next door for a sip before you dine.

There was one restaurant that was mentioned by almost everyone I spoke with about where to eat in Puerto Escondido—Chicama. Phoenix Anderson, an NYC-based model, put it simply: "The ceviche is insane—go!" The Peruvian spot is everything you want in coastal cuisine—ceviche, yes, but also seared octopus, fried plantains, and passion fruit margaritas. "Get whatever fish is on the menu and a mezcal sour—the bartender Marco makes the best in the entire world," Schiff insists, adding that the vibes are immaculate. "There's always a wait after sunset in La Punta, so go before then and wait in line (it's worth it, trust me)." The move is to have dinner here and stick around for a cocktail when it turns into one of the few hot spots for nightlife in town.

What to Do

In Puerto Escondido, you surf. If you're brave enough to hop on a board for a lesson, Anderson gushes about the programs at Oasis Surf and Spanish School. "I thought I knew how to surf until I came to Puerto and saw how powerful the waves were," she says. "For me, it was intimidating, but the coaches at Oasis are super involved and knowledgeable. They have photographers taking photos of you, which is not only great for memories, but they also have sessions where you look back at the photos and point out what you're doing wrong and how to improve. It's extremely helpful." Playa Carrizalillo is the calmer of the beach breaks, she notes, and the main La Punta Zicatela is where you'll find more advanced surfers.

Even if you spend 99% of your time being horizontal by the beach or pool, no trip to Puerto Escondido is complete without a visit to Fundación Casa Wabi. "This was honestly such a crazy experience," Schiffer tells me. "You drive for what feels like hours down this bumpy dirt road and then pull up on this massive horizontal concrete structure. It's such a shock to the system because it's in the most random location. We had a tour guide take us around the exhibit, and he told us about the art installations and how each artist who is featured takes up residency at the property for a few months while creating the pieces. They are all inspired by the land itself. I loved the neon-red rocks—they felt out of place but stood out dramatically."

By now, it should be abundantly obvious that Puerto Escondido isn't where you come to fill up your itinerary from morning straight until night. Sightseeing is largely limited to Casa Wabi, which you'll certainly want to set aside at least a half day for, in addition to day trips to some of the beaches that sit along the coast an hour or less from town. Immersing yourself in nature is the primary goal, whether that means getting on a surfboard or simply being horizontal next to the closest body of water. If you can muster enough courage for the former, then I'd venture that you can do the same to saddle up on the back of a horse. Guided sunset rides are easy to come across and will, no doubt, end up becoming one of the trip's core memories—or, at the very least, make for a few pretty Instagram posts. "While staying at Hotel Escondido we ran into some very nice vaqueros who were hanging out on the beach and they took us riding at sunset," Schiff recounts, pointing out that it's always a good idea to have some pesos on you in order to jump on adventures like this at a moment's notice. "It was amazing to be galloping down untouched beaches where the river met the sea. It was a memory I'll never forget."

Where to Beach

Stretching for over two miles along the Oaxacan coast is Playa Zicatela, and right at the southern end is where you'll find Playa La Punta, one of only a few beaches in the area. Here's where to head to try your surfing skills on more advanced waves or to simply soak in some of the most breathtaking sunsets.

Schiff tells me that she'd be remiss not to mention several nonprofit groups that have emerged to combat serious issues facing the area as the community sees a rise in tourists. "If you visit, please be sure to donate to SOS Puerto, and leave this special place cleaner than when you arrived, taking care of the nature around you," she says, adding that part of the experience is a respect for the land, the ocean and the Oaxacan people.

Set in a sheltered cove west of the center that's reached by a stairway of 157 steps, Playa Carrizalillo is where you'll want to head to actually swim and get in the water to snorkel, as it's more protected from the harsh currents you'll find at the main beaches. It's also incredibly photogenic and a place that encapsulates the magic of the area. Schiff says the experience feels like you just jumped out of a mermaid movie. "I've been to hundreds of beaches, and this is my favorite," she beams.

What to Pack

Puerto Escondido is a beach destination, after all, and both Allenberg and Schiffer advise on filling your suitcase with a wardrobe that's effortless yet refined. "The less clothes the better. It's hot." Schiffer advises. Not only that, but as most of the structures feature an indoor-outdoor situation, a focus on heat- and humidity-proof pieces like breezy linens, the perfect bikini, a woven tote, and simple slide sandals are not only recommended, but perhaps crucial. To that end, the style vibe is very minimal and low-key here, so the move is to go for a lineup of easy essentials and punctuate your outfits with standout accessories. If you opt for a fancier dress and heels for dinner, you may be the only one. In fact, Schiffer suggests leaning into the Japanese influence of the surroundings and keep your looks minimal—a few fun necklaces and accessories will do the trick. Nothing is perfectly streamlined, but that’s part of the charm, Allenberg adds. "[Puerto Escondido] is perfect place to slow down, and enjoy the comforts of a Mexico that still feels somewhat untouched."