As an Australian-soap-watching teenager with an affinity for surfer boys and H20 Just Add Water, a trip to see the iconic beaches and world-renowned beauty of Australia has always been on my bucket list. I simply needed to explore the country that produced Kylie Minogue, Margot Robbie and Steve Irwin. But with 10,000 miles between my home and the balmy beaches of Sydney, this adventure to surfer’s paradise was always going to be a big-ticket item on the agenda, far from a swanny down to the South of France.
So, after a year of saving and much planning (and a push from some of my closest friends who had migrated overseas), my boyfriend and I decided to book our flights and take the plunge. A three-week adventure to the land down under. Three cities, two campervans (many spiders) and one long sun-soaked road trip up the east coast to wrap things up. This last leg of our trip, travelling from Sydney all the way to Noosa Heads, was where I truly fell in love with Australia. Life on the road felt like the perfect way to see this surf-stretch of the country. It gave us the freedom to embrace the laid-back Aussie lifestyle and uncover the kind of under-the-radar corners of the coast TikTok travel heads would go mad for.
It goes without saying that my camera roll began to resemble a Getty stock-image bank as the days passed. The most vibrant sunsets you’ve ever seen, sweet beachside towns with surfers around every corner and a surprising array of artisan shops and linen-clad boutiques (I completely get the Aussie fashion brands hype now!) to fulfil all my shopping needs.
So, if you’re reading this, maybe it's your sign to book a flight. Or, live vicariously through this jam-packed travel guide, just like I am, sitting in my London flat writing this, looking out at the snowy scene outside my window.
Naturally, as a social media editor, my planning consisted of a lot of post-saving and a lot of scrolling. If I were going to spend over 27 hours on aeroplanes (I could write a full feature on how to survive that alone), I didn’t plan on wasting a second on the other end. From seeking out the freshest seafood in Coastal nooks like Nambucca Heads to discovering the hidden hinterlands of Byron Bay, scroll on for my editor-approved guide to where to eat, shop, stay and visit along the east coast of Australia. But first, (and most importantly?) what to pack.
What to Pack for Australia:
Stop 1: Sydney
A natural start to any adventure on the east coast, I couldn’t wait to explore New South Wales' thriving capital and home to some of the coolest and chicest Aussies. Situating ourselves in the Surry Hills area, between the bustling CBD (central business district) and iconic Sydney Harbour. Our time in the city was short, and our to-do list long, so a cosy bed and chilled vibe was a must.
Enter Ace Hotel Sydney. You know a stay is going to be heaven when you feel instantly relaxed on entering, and that was the exact vibe in the Ace’s lobby. From the expertly curated playlist to chilled-out corners to cosy up in, everything was perfectly set against a background of tasteful ‘70s-inspired interiors and exquisite touches. There were delicious small plates to enjoy with locally sourced ingredients from Kiln, the restaurant on the Hotel’s rooftop (I recommend the blue swimmer crab), and, if you’re a sucker for a spicy marg like I am the Ace’s street-view bar, Good Chemistry, was our favourite spot to come back to after a long day racking up our step counts. The low lighting and sexy bar stools are a bonus.
I’d heard that the magic of Sydney lies in the city’s chaotic mix of beach and metropolis, and we were keen to cover a lot of ground. A visit to the Northern Beaches was a must, stopping off at Avalon Beach for a dip in the sea pool and lunchtime shop in gorgeous homeware spots like Sway Home and Beachwood. But I couldn’t leave Sydney without completing the Coogee to Bondi coastal walk. It’s the best way to see the city’s beaches, with every stop taking on a different vibe. Clovelly was filled with cool East-London types reading trending book titles and dipping in and out of the concrete-lined sea pool (very Marseille!), whilst around the corner at Tamarama, the vibes were quaint and secluded on this short crescent of sand, with perfect rock pools and surrounding cliffs making the little stretch feel like a private beach in the Aegean.
Stop 2: Nambucca Heads
The next stop on our east-coast road trip was a little unplanned, but spontaneity can often be the key to unlocking the most breathtaking sights, and Nambucca Heads was nothing short of that. A small fishing town about five hours up the coast from Sydney, Nambucca Heads was equal parts sleepy seaside town and tropical paradise. With the waterfront acting as the meeting point between the Nambucca River and the Pacific Ocean, the town’s far-stretching estuary draws you in like a painting. For the best views of this epic landscape, walk up to the Captain’s Lookout at sunset, followed by a jaunt back down the hill to the town’s most popular restaurant, Matilda’s.
Being a small town, there aren’t lots of eateries to choose from, but that almost makes this place feel more magical. Everything you stumble across feels like an untouched gem. Matilda’s, with its fresh seafood and eclectic wood-fire pizza menu (with delicious wines to complement!), is the perfect place to fill your tummy after a long day on the beach.
Enjoy dinner with views over the riverbank and take a sunset stroll over the boardwalks, spotting the abundant fish and wildlife underfoot. Nambucca is celebrated for its Aboriginal ancestry, and the town’s history as a colonised hamlet is documented throughout. Don’t miss a visit to the V Wall along the waterfront, where fishers come to fetch a daily catch amongst the artwork by locals etched onto the rocks; everything from football team shout-outs to marriage proposals and commemorations has been painted in bright colours along the path. Out on the edge of this stretch of street art, you might even spot a dolphin in peak season!
Nambucca Heads is where we saw the largest amount of wildlife on our trip: kookaburras, wallabees and what felt like every parrot under the sky walking through the botanical gardens, and by night, the town’s jungle-lined streets come alive—so much so that a goanna lizard greeted us one morning outside our Airbnb.
Stop 3: Byron Bay
Ever since its reputation was solidified in the late ‘90s as a "hippy paradise", over the past 30 years, Byron Bay has become one of the most visited tourist destinations in Australia. So, it was an obvious choice for our third stop on the road. With a world-class surf culture and a delicious array of beachy shops and yogi-loving cafés, this hipster hotspot is the perfect place to plant yourself for a restful retreat. And by stop three on our road trip, that's exactly what we needed. I couldn’t wait to soak up the laid-back lifestyle, so when it came to accommodation, spending a night a little further afield, tucked away in the beautiful hinterlands of Byron Bay at Sun Ranch, was the perfect excursion.
Over the past few years, Sun Ranch has quickly become the spot for cool digital nomads on the east coast. Set between stretches of private farmland and the vivid rainforests of New South Wales, this boutique stay offers an immediate escape from reality. The teakwood furniture, ‘70s-inspired decor and sumptuous colour palette stretches from the expansive bedrooms to the cosy on-site sauna. Staying in one of the hotel’s barns felt like being on the set of a sexy Western movie; sipping on a spicy marg (I really do love them) and watching over the paddock of horses (which you can ride on request, if that’s your wheelhouse) on the deck was the perfect remedy after a week of heavy travelling.
After a dose of nature in the rolling hills and a day hiking one of Byron’s beautiful nature spots, Minyon Falls (the trees literally smelled like Aesop's Post-Poo Drops), it was time to explore the other side of Byron Bay. A short bike ride from town, The Sunseeker Motel is a fantastic spot to park yourself. Lazy days can be spent poolside and nights relaxing at the hotel’s alfresco bar.
By day, Byron’s bustling town stole my heart, with an array of small, craft-driven shopping spots, breakfast bars with the freshest Açai bowls you’ve ever tasted (Notting Hill could never) and great restaurants. Byron has some amazing eats, and some of the best Asian food I tasted in my whole time in Australia (and, naturally, that was a lot). Don’t skip Japonaise Kitchen for the signature Chicken Karaage, or Light Years for Asian-inspired tapas dishes.
I haven’t even started on the coffee. If I gave you all my recommendations, you’d be bouncing off the walls, but let me just confirm that Australian coffee is elite.
Stop 4: Noosa Heads
Could it be that we left the best till last? It feels strange to come to that conclusion when this entire road trip felt like a dream, but our final stop in Noosa Heads had a little bit of everywhere else wrapped into one. It's a charming, effortlessly laid-back town with everything to offer. We stayed in the Sunrise Beach area, a secluded stretch of beach a little set back from the busy lake and beachfront area. The peace made every scene feel more special. I promise this is the spot to situate yourself for epic sunsets and even more spectacular sunrises (I don’t take a 5 am wakeup lightly, and didn’t regret it for a moment after seeing the view).
For a quiet suburb, I was taken aback by the number of chic shopping options in Noosa Heads, with everything from independently run boutiques to some of our favourite Aussie brands. I loved shopping at Dissh and Aje in what felt like their natural habitat, and yes, I was using that as my excuse for indulging. Set just off the beachfront, I was able to shop between shifts on Noosa’s famous beaches, of which I had many favourites. Little Cove Beach is a small alcove nestled between the cliffs, perfect for a relaxing day reading and paddling, and if you prefer to be in the mix of it all (or fancy some surf lessons), head to Noosa’s main beach, but make sure to have lunch at Noosa Surf Club for the best views of surfers catching waves before you leave.
As well as shopping till I dropped, I ate my way through Noosa Heads like a maniac. It was the last stop, after all, and I wasn’t going to miss out on any delicious eats before heading home. For breakfast, Depot Noosa offers excellent coffee and the healthiest-looking fry-up I'd ever seen (I actually think this made it taste more delicious), whilst for dinner, we were spoilt for choice. Noosa is well-known for its fresh seafood, and a visit to the town’s seafood market should definitely make it onto your list. The fish counters here look a lot different from the supermarket offerings back home, and the best bit? You’ll find the same eclectic lineup of seafood on the menu of most local restaurants. I’m still dreaming of tasty prawn platter lunches at Noosa Surf Club Bar.
If you do one thing on your travels up the east coast, I implore you to stop by Humble on Duke in Noosa’s Sunshine Bay neighbourhood. You’ll be served a shared menu of small plates from Middle Eastern tapas to seasonal delights. It’s the exact kind of dining experience you’d expect from Noosa’s welcoming, chilled-out vibes, with staff helping you navigate the excellent wine menu, providing what feels like a personal experience from this family-run restaurant. Book in advance, because it gets busy!
