With the personalized algorithms of youth-driven social media platforms like TikTok, it can be difficult to figure out when and how a trend started. Sure, when the term "very demure" is paired with "very mindful," many of us may recall the viral videos by creator Jools Lebron. However, the same can't always be said for beauty trends that have been widely interpreted as modern takes on looks of the past.
Over the past couple of years, we've gravitated toward the beauty trends of the '90s and 2000s on TikTok, often with a bite-sized history lesson in the caption of a post. The meteoric rise of the fluffy silk press, for example, has inspired a renewed appreciation for the low-heat style and our favorite silk press wearing leading ladies of the '90s and 2000s, especially Tatyana Ali as the lovable Ashley Banks in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. Her signature silk press was iconic for two main reasons: It always had an envy-worthy amount of shine and the volume to match.
There was nothing stick straight about it, and I haven't been able to stop thinking about how to pull off the throwback style when I get my next silk press. To learn more about the trend and how to create the fluffy, silky look that's been on the rise, I tapped beauty and hair expert LeAna McKnight, the owner of Stylist Lee Hair Studio and the founder of the award-winning hair-extension line SL Raw Virgin Hair. Ali may have debuted her take on the hairstyle over 30 years ago, but it's clear Gen Zers and millennials agree that we're far from over it based on the sheer number of posts under #fluffypress on TikTok.
Breaking Down the Fluffy Press Trend
For newcomers to the world of the silk press, take comfort in knowing it may be one of the most underrated styles that can be created with natural hair textures. "The silk press is a transformative experience that allows you to see your natural hair in a new way," begins McKnight. "The process typically takes between one to two hours, depending on your hair's density and length. It involves using heat to smooth and elongate naturally curly hair, revealing its true length."
According to McKnight, after washing, drying, and prepping the hair, your stylist will work in small sections using the chase method—a hair-straightening technique that involves using a wide-toothed comb or boar-bristle brush followed by the pass of a flat iron. This ensures each strand is smooth and can "showcase the hair's natural luster and movement." Working with heat not only smooths the hair from root to tip, but it also makes it easier to style and reduces the appearance of density.
For a '90s-inspired twist on the modern-day silk press, McKnight recommends asking your stylist to use medium to moderate heat around 365°F, allowing for a more textured style. "Using higher heat, like 400°F, can make the hair appear too silky and flat, reducing the fluffy, voluminous effect," she explains. To give the hair that voluminous, fluffy look, your stylist may use moderate heat with just one to two passes over each section. The ideal temperature may vary depending on the texture and density of the hair.
Playing Defense Against Heat Damage
McKnight also tells me it's possible to get a silk press without altering your natural curl pattern or causing heat damage if proper precautions are taken. "This starts with ensuring your hair is healthy and following personalized care instructions. The stylist should assess your hair's condition and, if needed, recommend protein treatments to strengthen it before the silk press," says McKnight. It's also crucial to use a high-quality heat protectant along with the right straightener temperature based on your hair's texture and density.
As with all hairstyles, there are a few key tricks to getting it right at the salon the first time (i.e. no frantic touch-up appointments). To avoid staying in one spot too long, your stylist should ensure even heat distribution. After leaving the salon, avoid applying additional heat. McKnight suggests adding serum to the ends of your strands to protect against sun damage. The goal here is to extend the wear time of your silk press by locking in hydration and allowing the style to set correctly.
I'm also taking style notes from actresses and twin sisters Tia and Tamera Mowry.
Extending Your Silk Press Style
To extend the life of your silk press, McKnight tells me that the hair should be wrapped every night in a beehive pattern and secured with a satin bonnet or silk scarf for protection. "This helps maintain the style without needing additional heat," she says. Additionally, McKnight recommends pin-curling the hair using double-prong clips or duck pins to keep curls in place. The proud new wearer of a silk press should always have a good blow dryer, a heat protectant, a pressing comb, and a ceramic flat iron with adjustable heat settings.
Getting silk presses every week and doing them on damaged hair should be avoided for the best results. If your hair has been damaged and you'd like to receive a silk press in the future, McKnight suggests focusing on treating and strengthening your hair before making that appointment. Excessive heat passes using your flat iron should also be avoided. Two to three passes of the styling tool are enough, and anything more can cause heat damage.
Ready to try your hand at a '90s-style silk press? Keep scrolling for the best stylist- and beauty editor approved products to cleanse, style, and maintain the trendy style.
1. Shampoos and Conditioners
This nourishing shampoo-and-conditioner duo is enriched with shea butter, argan oil, and jojoba oil to deliver soft and shiny strands. When you have dry textured hair, it's important to use cleansing products that won't strip it of essential natural oils.
Customer Review: "I recently switched to TGIN (Thank God It's Natural) shampoo and conditioner, and I am absolutely thrilled with the results. This dynamic duo has proven to be a game-changer for my hair care routine, leaving my curls healthier, softer, and more manageable than ever before."
This clarifying shampoo cleanses curly and coily hair by removing buildup and impurities on the scalp and strands with charcoal, and coconut oil adds luster, shine, and softness.
Customer Review: "I love this shampoo! It has made such a difference in my hair when paired with the mask. I have a natural curly/wavy pattern and after bleaching my hair, I thought it was done for. I've consistently used this product and can honestly say my hair looks so healthy. It's moisturizing, and the scent is amazing."
Incorporating a good leave-in conditioner into your haircare routine can help restore moisture and adds shine to hair. This one's formula uses a blend of soy protein and B5 to gently hydrate and detangle the hair without weighing it down.
Customer Review: "I have been looking for a good spray leave-in conditioner that smells good and actually keeps my hair soft. I have very dry and brittle hair, and this conditioner was great for me. I can [see] the difference, and I have not used anything else since getting this gift. Love it!"
2. Hair-Prep Products
McKnight uses Paul Mitchell's Super Skinny Serum to help play defense against humidity and frizz. It works by speeding up drying time, leaving the hair looking smooth and shiny with a bright, juicy scent.
Customer Review: "This is my go-to to tame my naturally curly hair. It gives me shiny, wavy hair which is so much nicer than the frizz I had before. I've tried so many hair products, but this is the best for my hair type. It isn't oily or greasy either."
Shu Uemura's lightweight hair oil protects against breakage, frizz, UV damage, and heat up to 450°F. Its key ingredient is Japanese red camellia oil, which is rich in antioxidants, essential lipids, and vitamins A, C, and E.
Customer Review: "I love this oil more than I thought I would. The smell is subtle but gorgeous, and the texture is [very light,] but my hair soaks it up. Adds shine without grease and keeps my ends softer too. I have medium wavy, color-treated hair that I style once a week, and this keeps my hair feeling healthier."
Instead of sacrificing movement for long-lasting hold, use the Dyson Pre-Styling Hair Cream to get the best of both worlds. It also helps to reduce frizz, seal in shine, and condition the hair surface for your desired style.
Customer Review: "I've been using it since it arrived. The fragrance is super light but smells a bit floral? The pump is the pink part, and you can pump product into the little dip or straight onto your hand, which is super cool! So far it's been holding up my hairstyles and does not feel crunchy like other holding products."
3. Heat Protection
McKnight swears by using the Platinum Hot Spray to protect her customer's hair during the silk press process. Not only does it prevent hair damage from hot tools, but it also offers long-lasting hold and endless shine.
Customer Review: "When I got my hair cut the lady who styled my hair used this, and let me just say I fell in LOVE with this. It doesn't really have a smell, but it doesn't make your hair smell bad either. Also, it does not leave a stickiness like normal hair spray does, and it protects your hair from heat damage. Double whammy if you ask me!"
If it's a '90s-inspired silk press you're after, volume is key. This Olaplex spray repairs and protects the hair from styling damage up to 450°F, speeds up drying time, and will give your tendrils frizz-free body and bounce.
Customer Review: "This product helped me straighten my hair and give it life and volume. It fit easily into our hair dryer and made drying my hair quicker. I got lots of complements every time I fixed my hair using the product."
Part of the Caviar Anti-Aging product line, Alterna's leave-in heat protection spray repairs and protects damaged hair using a formula enriched with vitamins, fatty acids, and proteins to restore moisture, shine, and elasticity.
Customer Review: "There are so many heat protectors on the market these days. This is my go to with the added benefits of a slight style. I have short hair, so I only use a spritz or two, and I'm good. More than enough product. No issues with sprayer like some other brands. Good product and value for the price."
4. Hot Tools and Brushes
The powerful 1875 Watt Professional Dryer by Gold N' Hot has three heat settings, two speed options, and easy-to-use air concentrator and pick attachments for smooth, blown-out hair.
Customer Review: "This is the best blow dryer I have ever used! I have been using this blow dryer for 20 years. I have very thick, coarse, and at times hard to manage hair. This blow dryer is a miracle worker and does such a great job. I just repurchase it when needed. It lasts a super long time before needing a new one."
From its precise milled plates with an ultra-gloss coating to its rounded barrel, this hot tool offers sleek hair in a single pass. It's also preset to the optimal temperature of 365°F for damage-free styling.
Customer Review: "This is my second GHD flat iron. I used my first one for several years before cleaning hairspray from the plates. Apparently, I [got] moisture in it. I decided I wouldn't choose another brand because I love my first one so much. So far, so good!"
Short on time? Try using this multipurpose three-in-one hot tool to dry, brush, and style the hair in one easy step. In addition to reducing frizz and increasing shine, this Chi tool seals the cuticle and minimizes flyaways.
Customer Review: "I was very impressed the very first time I used it. My hair is curly, and this unit dried and straightened at the same time and was quick. I was a skeptic but am so pleased."
According to McKnight, you can achieve a similar voluminous look by using a large round brush. Crafted from European beech wood and varnished by hand, this brush adds volume and shine to the tendrils.
Customer Review: "This is a miracle hair product! Works great on my thick, wavy, and porous hair. It makes it very easy to style my bangs and does not dry my hair off too slowly. My one con is that it is quite expensive when compared to other brands of hair brushes. If it is within your price [limit] though, I definitely recommend it."
5. Styling and Maintenance Aids
Color Wow's Pop + Lock Frizz Control + Glossing Serum uses a unique oil-and-seed formula that offers protection against harmful heat/UV rays while taming flyaways, frizz, and split ends. It also adds shine to wet or dry hair.
Customer Review: "Love this! I have textured dull dry hair. … I do a blow out with the Color Wow Dream Coat and finish with this Pop + Lock serum. I received [it] as a sample and just purchased the full size. It's that good!"
I love using this smoothing blowout cream to give me the sleek look I'm after while offering protection against humidity and heat using Oribe's Signature Complex of watermelon, lychee, and edelweiss-flower extracts.
Customer Review: "I have naturally kinky 3C hair, and this (along with my Dyson Airwrap) gets it smooth and straight, and it STAYS straight until I wash it again. This is a life saver."
Running a lightweight oil, like the OI Hair Oil for Softness and Shine, through your strands will give you that picture-perfect finish that so many '90s leading ladies were known for. Plus, it softens, adds shine, and detangles.
Customer Review: "I've been looking for a good hair oil that doesn't weigh my hair down, and I finally found it! This makes my hair smooth and shiny without making it look greasy. I love that the texture is so lightweight, and it also smells good!"
McKnight says using a satin wrap is a crucial part of extending the wear time of a silk press far beyond the salon appointment. This one by Grow Gorgeous shields the hair as you sleep using vegan-friendly satin.
Customer Review: "Love this silk wrap. Used to straighten my hair every day, but not now. I wear the wrap for bed, and my hair just falls into place—no straightening, no frizz. Wish I had bought these sooner. Feels in such good condition, brilliant."
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