Retinol Products Scared Me, TBH, But This French 5-in-1 Formula Totally Shifted My Stance

I have the kind of skin that might be a beauty editor’s worst nightmare and an inquisitive reader’s dream. Perennially dry (yes, even in the summer), red thanks to rosacea, and sensitive to oil, heavy fragrance, and most common irritants. Basically, my skin is out to get me in this product-testing-heavy role, which means that when something passes my skin test, you’ll know it’s likely safe enough to use yourself.

Now, I won’t pretend to be a dermatologist. You should always consult with your doctor before trying a new product that aims to change your skin landscape, especially something that includes retinol (or something like it, in the case of this latest launch from an editor-adored French pharmacy brand). That said, Embryolisse’s Lait-Crème Rétinol-Like is a sensitive skin safe moisturizer that promises the same skin-smoothing results as your favorite retinol cream, just with a plant-based alternative that spares the harshness this vitamin A derivative often inflicts upon irritable skin.

Though retinol has been a buzzword for several years at this point, I’ve been hesitant to add the resurfacing agent into my skincare routine for a few reasons. My skin is already dry, so I don’t need to endure the peeling phase that ensues after implementing a retinol product. I’m only 25, so I don’t exactly have wrinkles that I want to target (yet). And most importantly, I prefer to keep my skincare routine simple: face cleanser, serum (only if I need it), moisturizer, and sunscreen in the daytime, so I don’t want to bulk up my routine.

I didn’t expect myself to fall for this moisturizer as much as I did, but, man, do I understand now why the French love this pharmacy brand so much.

About the Embryolisse Lait-Crème Retinol-Like

Though I’ve referenced this product as a retinol cream several times, it’s much more than that. In addition to being an anti-aging moisturizer, this thick, smoothing formula moonlights as a makeup primer, hydrating mask, restorative night cream, and nourishing body milk. While I didn’t give it a proper weeklong trial as a body treatment (I’ve been living for a specific luxury and drugstore bodycare duo these days), its thick formula is certainly nourishing enough to work as a restorative post-shower treatment. (Plus, its relatively large tube size makes it easier to justify using on both your face and body.)

While this cream can seemingly do it all—keep your makeup in place during the daytime, restore your skin with renewed radiance overnight—the ingredient we can attribute most of the formula’s success to is a plant-based retinol alternative called French big clover. It's known as Grand Trèfle by the French, and the extract of this plant is rich in thickening agents called Galactomannans, which stimulate the production of collagen (plumping wrinkles in the process), while smoothing and soothing the skin barrier.

The benefits of this plant can be compared to retinol, or more broadly, retinoids, in a few ways. “Retinoids are a powerhouse ingredient from the vitamin A family and are known for transforming the skin,” Mona Gohara, MD, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, previously toldBest Knockoff Luxury Clothing . “They work by revving up skin cell turnover by shedding dead skin cells so new, healthy ones can come to the surface.” Much like retinol, French big clover revitalizes the skin by increasing cell turnover and acting as a soothing sealant for the fresh complexion below—aided by other nourishing, protective ingredients such as organic aloe vera, carnauba wax, and shea butter.

The Testing Process

As a 25-year-old with no major skin concerns at the moment, I might not have the same experience with this product as someone with more mature, acne-prone, or sensitive skin. Users with wrinkles may reap more of the benefits than I, as I primarily use this formula for a preventative measure. That said, I did notice a change in my skin after just one week of use.

The instructions indicate that you can use this product morning and night, but erring on the side of caution, I used the cream once daily, usually as the last step in my nighttime skincare routine. Just a few dollops on my skin were enough to make it feel thoroughly moisturized, so much so that my skin felt tacky if I accidentally applied too much. Fortunately, my slightly heavy-handedness graced me with supple, glowing skin in the morning.

I first experienced the common reaction that most have when they start using retinol: peeling, dry skin, as my dermis began to shed itself. This happened mostly around my mouth, coupled with a bit of redness on my cheeks and jawline that you can see in my “before” photo above. That said, this wasn’t for lack of moisture—as the formula felt thick enough to be a mask—so these spots slowly disappeared to reveal healthy, hydrated skin by the end of the week.

While I’m not the intended recipient of this product’s hero benefit, wrinkle reduction, I did a bit of snooping around to see what people with more mature skin than I experienced with this formula. “This product has made my face look years younger in just a few weeks using it as a night cream,” says an Amazon shopper in their five-star review. “I’m [in my] mid-60s with modest creases on my forehead, and somehow this is helping to reduce those creases to almost nothing. I wish I had discovered it years ago.”

Final Thoughts

Overall, I’d recommend this product to anyone who wants to boost their skin’s elasticity, collagen, and hydration levels—especially if they have sensitive skin and react negatively to retinol or other retinoids (think retinyl, retinal, and tretinoin).

It has a thick consistency that feels a bit too heavy under makeup on hot summer days, but I can see it being a great, hydrating primer during the cooler months thanks to its slightly tacky texture. Because it has a thicker feel, I recommend using a thin layer as an overnight mask two to three times a week to get the most benefits any time of year (and for this reason, it makes a great body lotion, too).

What Is a Retinol Alternative?

Retinol alternatives are largely utilized by users with sensitive skin who react negatively to the strong resurfacing agents within most retinol products. Board-certified dermatologist Stacey Tull, MD, previously toldBest Knockoff Luxury Clothing that retinol irritation can be exacerbated in even those with “normal” skin types during the winter months, so retinol alternatives are a better, gentler option for healthy skin stimulation in this case. She also explains that because some people have very sensitive skin, retinol alternatives may be “as good as or better than the real thing.”

Common alternatives include bakuchiol, a natural antioxidant that has been found to balance skin texture while diffusing fine lines and wrinkles, alfalfa, which is a more widely recognized name for French big clover, and niacinamide, which Tull says can “boost collagen, target acne, and address skin discoloration.”

Can I Use the Embryolisse Cream Every Day?

Yes, you can use the Embryolisse Lait-Crème Rétinol-Like every day. In fact, it is suitable to use day and night, and Tull once recommended that you use retinol alternatives in this way, if your skin is amenable to it. “While retinols are inactivated by the sun and should only be applied at night, better results are achieved with twice-daily dosing of retinol alternatives," Tull explained.

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