Meet Madecassoside—the Trending Ingredient That Soothes, Hydrates, and Protects Sensitive Skin

If you have sensitive skin like me, you know the struggle. Use a high concentration of an active ingredient, reach for the wrong product, or even just rub your skin a little too hard, and you'll see redness and irritation pop up in large, unsightly patches. From there, it often takes the skin a few days (if not longer) to return to baseline. In the meantime, I either have to deal with it or cover it with foundation and concealer. Either way, it's unfortunate.

That's why I consider myself an expert on soothing skincare ingredients. I want to prevent redness and irritation from ever appearing and soothe it if it does come up. My MVPs include heartleaf, hypochlorous acid, ectoin, and exosomes. Lately, I've been seeing another soothing ingredient listed on the back of my products (namely Korean ones), and I wanted to know more. I reached out to two top dermatologists, and they said it can soothe, hydrate, and prevent irritation. Ahead, learn everything there is to know about this trendy ingredient called madecassoside. (I know—it's a mouthful.)

What is madecassoside?

According to Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology, "madecassoside is a compound known as a terpene found in the centella asiatica plant." The centella asiatica plant is also known as cica, gotu kola, and tiger grass. It's a skincare ingredient renowned for its soothing and reparative benefits, which explains why it's found in so many products formulated specifically for sensitive skin. Centella asiatica gets all the credit, but Yadav says, "Madecassoside is responsible for many of the benefits associated with centella asiatica."

Noah Gratch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, agrees, adding that it's the primary active ingredient and bioactive compound in centella asiatica.

It's worth noting that this ingredient is found in many Korean skincare products and less so in American ones. When I asked the dermatologists why that is, they had some theories. "Korean skincare often includes gentle, anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as madecassoside, that are known to help repair the skin barrier," Gratch says. "While centella asiatica is widely used in the States, this compound alone has yet to be recognized much."

Yadav has a similar take. "I think there is a focus on active skincare in products in the U.S. that prioritizes changing the skin, while K-beauty has an emphasis on supporting the skin's health, beauty, and function," she says. "Centella asiatica has increased in popularity in recent years stateside, so I would expect that madecassoside isn't too far behind."

How does it benefit the skin?

Madecassoside offers some serious skin benefits, specifically for sensitive and acne-prone skin. "Madecassoside is beneficial to all skin types, but especially skin that is sensitive or has a compromised skin barrier," Yadav says. "Its greatest benefit is its anti-inflammatory properties—madecassoside helps quell inflammation as well as redness, which makes it great for irritated, sensitive skin as well as skin prone to developing painful, swollen blemishes." It also functions as an antioxidant, meaning it helps "to defend the skin from free radical damage that can accelerate skin aging," Yadav adds.

As if that's not enough, it's also hydrating. "Studies show that it helps to both hydrate and moisturize the skin while working to prevent transepidermal water loss," Yadav says. Translation? It keeps moisture in the skin—right where it should be.

Last but certainly not least, madecassoside has a regenerative effect on the skin. "Finally, it also has wound-healing benefits, with studies showing that it can stimulate collagen production," Yadav says. How's that for a do-it-all ingredient?

To sum it up, here are all the benefits of madecassoside, according to Gratch:

• Anti-Inflammatory: "Madecassoside reduces the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which can help reduce redness and irritation of the skin."
• Antioxidant: "It works like a shield to protect your cells. Madecassoside neutralizes free radicals (which damage and age the skin)."
• Hydration + Wound Healing + Collagen Production: "It helps boost collagen production, neutralizes free radicals, and reduces inflammation, all of which contribute to hydration and anti-aging."

Is there anyone who should avoid it?

Both dermatologists say madecassoside can be beneficial for all skin types, including acne-prone skin. Since it's noncomedogenic, you don't have to worry about it contributing to the formation of new acne. "Madecassoside is extremely beneficial to those with inflammatory skin conditions, including acne," Yadav says. "Madecassoside is proven to inhibit the inflammation caused by acne, making it a helpful ingredient to have on deck for treating breakouts. … Centella asiatica has been shown to also be helpful in the treatment of eczema or atopic dermatitis due to its anti-inflammatory effects."

Still, it's better to be safe than sorry, which is why Gratch recommends performing a patch test. "Whenever you try out a new product/ingredient, it's always smart to patch-test first to ensure there's no irritation," he says. "Always consult with your dermatologist before trying something new." Still, he says, "It's generally well-tolerated by most skin types."

It might go without saying, but Yadav cautions against using madecassoside if you have a known allergy to centella asiatica. "Centella asiatica and its derivatives are generally well-tolerated, but allergies are possible in rare cases," she says. "Anyone with an allergy to centella asiatica should avoid madecassoside or other centella asiatica derived compounds."

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