I Never Thought I'd Wear This Trending Dress Style Again, But Here We Are

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(Image credit: @brittanybathgate)

Brittany Bathgate wears the Cecilie Bahsen plissé dress. It's high empire waistline and bubble skirt has become a cult reference in the fashion space.

SS23 catwalks clung to the sentiment of shrunken hemlines and models ushered down the runway in larger-than-life babydoll dresses, in the wake of the micro miniskirt. Cecilie Bahnsen and Simone Rocha were some of the designers to produce whimsical minis with pronounced silhouettes and taffeta aplenty.

The babydoll dress was coined in 1956, courtesy of Elia Kazan’s Baybydoll, where we were first introduced to the cotton-rich flounced nightgown, swiftly followed by Balenciaga couture and styles of the swinging ‘60s. It’s since evolved to the versions we’re familiar with today. 2023’s iterations are full and vibrant, with layers of organza, tulle and circle skirts.

Typically, babydoll dresses are defined by a pinched empire waistline, full-skirted smock element and a raised hem, however, some designers have introduced modern elements and play on longer lengths and proportions. When I think about babydoll designs with a modern lilt, I refer to Molly Goddard’s dresses which are usually favoured in costume design and formal events. Her styles are playful and evoke the essence of dressing. I can’t help but think of Abercrombie and Fitch’s viral summer dress last year, with the full-skirted component and lowered waistline. The mini shirred dress also bears a likeness, as the tautness of an elasticated waist encourages a full skirt.

Selkie, Molly Goddard and Cecilie Bahnsen are brands that have specialised in babydoll dresses long before its reclaim, with styles that convey whimsicality for the modern woman.

We’re in the midst of significant pop culture moments that have inspired ‘more is more’ dressing, from the Barbie reboot to Disney’s Live-Action The Little Mermaid, inspiring the ‘Mermaidcore’ and ‘Barbiecore’ phenomenon, and I’m certain the era of dressing up has only just begun.

Keep scrolling to see my edit of the best babydoll dresses for summer. There’s something for lovers of saturated hues, minimalists and a few wild cards thrown in for good measure.

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(Image credit: @nlmarilyn)

Selkie is renowned for producing exaggerated silhouettes in whimsical prints. As demonstrated by Marilyn, pair bold styles with classic accessories for the ultimate party look.

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(Image credit: @bubblyaquarius)

Why not opt for a babydoll dress in a relaxed fabrication? Rachael shows how you can transcend this typically bold style into looks for everyday wear when you take fabrications into account.

Shop the Best Babydoll Dresses:

Next Up: Of All the Dress Trends, These Are the 10 That Matter Most Right Now

Freelance Fashion Editor

Avalon Afriyie is a freelance writer and storyteller based in London. She specialises in sustainable fashion, health and the narratives of marginalised communities. She has a background in fashion show production and styling, having previously worked on The Clothes Show and with the Lyst Group. Since graduating in 2013 with a BA (Hons) in English and contemporary media, she’s worked as a feature writer for an independent publication and a contributor for Quill’s creator network. She now marries her passion for words and style, writing for some of the most esteemed fashion and lifestyle publications,Best Knockoff Luxury Clothing UK and Stylist. Avalon also provides copywriting services, creative consultancy, and visual media for independent businesses, including travel guides, interviews, press releases and blog posts. Her work has been featured on Lush, Contiki, Youswim and Ohne. She spends her days writing to her heart’s content for business and pleasure, shooting on film and dreaming of residing a stone’s throw away from the ocean with her love and a pup (clad in a sweeping frock, of course). She’s currently penning ideas for a book of personal essays and free verse poetry on love, life and the stages in between.