It is the last day of London Fashion Week technically, but not spiritually. Twelve hours ago, at 2 a.m. New York time, Gucci dropped all 38 looks from its first collection designed by former Balenciaga Creative Director Demna on Instagram.
Gucci’s presentation isn’t until tomorrow, and it is not a runway show but a film titled The Tiger, starring Demi Moore and directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn. This unprecedented and unannounced early lookbook drop, akin to the surprise album announcements we’ve become accustomed to in 2025, had every fashion fan eagerly buzzing before Milan Fashion Week even began.
Demna’s appointment to Gucci back in March was also initially shocking, given that his work at Balenciaga, which had been controversial, felt perhaps too cheeky and at times less glamorous than that for which Gucci has become known. This collection proves that Demna’s Gucci will look quite different, with an emphasis on Italian glamour, LACMA gala ready red carpet looks, and archival references. Fans are already freaking out online and giving the highest form of approval, which is, of course, wondering which look Rihanna will wear. Our money is on the big fuzzy blue coat, but there are more than a handful of Rihanna-ready looks, which is an impressive feat in itself.
A Surprise Drop
While it hasn’t been confirmed, the collection does appear to be a fall/winter collection and will be available in 10 Gucci stores, from New York to Tokyo, from September 25 to October 12. “La Famiglia marks Gucci’s return to storytelling, going back to the future by way of the past,” the press release read. “Defining the aesthetic base upon which Demna’s Gucci vision will be built leading up to his first show in February.” Gucci is letting Demna build up to his first show, while giving us the most delicious taste of what the future of Gucci will be. If anything, the lookbook drop has the fashion set more eager than ever to see what will come of the fashion film premiere tomorrow and if any additional looks or surprises are in the works.
A Very Gucci Cast of Characters
The collection is named La Familgia because it is a study of the “Gucciness of Gucci,” according to the press release, which also says, “This collection marks the genesis of a new Gucci era: unapologetically sexy, extravagant, and daring.” Each look is framed as though it is a family portrait with a name engraved at the bottom, representing different archetypes. Each archetype is a different character, meant to encapsulate all the kinds of personalities and aesthetic attitudes that make up the fashion house as a whole. It's all very cinematic, dramatic, and extremely fun. In other words, it feels appropriately Italian.
The press release also called out a handful of characters: “A Bomba’s volatile feline sass is mirrored by her ‘stripes,’ and La Cattiva embodies the severe elegance of a femme fatale. Miss Aperitivo is simply preoccupied with having the time of her life, while L’Influencer embodies the social media fashion enthusiast. La Mecenate, La Contessa, Sciura, and Primadonna exude refined Italian elegance, while Principino and La Principessa capture two sides of the same coin: the centre of attention.” Personally, we relate to La Drama Queen, who is wrapped in the most gorgeous fluffy coat in a pale pastel purple. The only sliver of her skin that you really see is of her long leg peeking out from a feather trim. It's the exact kind of fabulous sexiness Gucci is known for.
An Archival All-or-Nothing Approach
Demna has evidently been digging into the archives, and this collection features some of Gucci’s most iconic pieces from the Bamboo 1947 bag to the Horsebit loafer. There’s also familiar motifs including the Flora and the GG Monogram. A handful of looks feature more than one archival reference, serving as a reminder that a head-to-toe Gucci look is always the best Gucci look.
