A Celebrity Manicurist Told Me This Is How to Make Your Manicures to Look More Expensive
Your nail prep can make or break your manicure, so we asked a celebrity nail tech to walk us through how to prep your nails, step by step.
If you're anything like me, your saved folder is likely filled with nail trend inspo and nail art ideas. However, I've always wondered how these beautiful hands always look so immaculate, with perfectly manicured cuticles and meticulously filed nails without a hint of dry skin in sight.
When it comes to doing my nails at home, they never look quite as polished as they would in the hands of a nail tech. After all, nail technicians train for years to hone their techniques, and while a DIY mani can never truly compare to one of a pro, there are steps you can take to make your nails look more professional. And it all comes down to how you prep your nails, from nail filing to finishing cuticle oils.
As a beauty editor who has been lucky to have my nails done by celebrity manicurists, they all have one thing in common. Nail prep is key. For some, this process can be hours long before nail polish, gel, or BIAB is applied. No matter what type of manicure you're having, nail prep makes all the difference.
Why Is Nail Prep Important?
"Nail prep is the foundation of any good manicure," says celebrity manicurist Georgia Rae. "You can apply the best products, but if the nail isn’t properly prepped, it simply won’t last. Good prep ensures better adhesion, a smoother finish, and prevents issues like lifting, chipping, or peeling," she says.
Ahead, Rae shares her tips on how to prep nails for your most beautiful manicure yet.
How to Prep Nails
1. Prep Cuticles
"I always start by gently pushing back and almost lifting the cuticle [the skin at the base of the nail] from the nail bed. I will then nip away or buff any non-living tissue," says Rae.
A nail tech is trained to remove the cuticle safely, so if you're doing your nails at home, you can gently push them back with a cuticle pusher or orange stick, rather than cutting them away. "Cuticles should be gently pushed back, not aggressively cut. Nipping away too much can lead to irritation," says Rae.
"At home, I would use a cuticle remover such as Essie’s Ready, Prep, Go Cuticle Remover (£15). Massage that into your nails and surrounding skin, and when rinsing away, use a nail brush to exfoliate and dry completely using a towel," she says.
"Using an orange wood stick, gently push back the cuticle. I then like to use the loop end of the Staleks Expert 51 tool (£7) to lift away any stubborn dead skin sitting on the nail plate, and then using a cuticle nipper to only nip away any obvious dead skin which will appear white once dry," she says.
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2. File Nails
"After that, I move on to shaping," says Rae. "Always use a 240-grit nail file on natural nails, blunt the edges with another nail file to avoid nicks and check from every angle as you file to make sure they are uniform," she says.
Whether you're opting for almond nails, squoval nails, square nails or any other nail shape, take your time to ensure they're equally shaped on both hands and all at the same length to make them look neat. If you're shaping your nails into an oval or almond shape, take care not to file the sides of the nails down (known as the side walls) too much, as this can affect the structure of the nails and lead to breakage.
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3. Prep the Nail Plate
"I will then cleanse the nail to remove dust and oils, and make sure everything is completely dry before application. My key tools are an orange wood stick, the Staleks Expert 51 tool, a small, thin 240 grit nail file, lint-free wipes and a nail cleanser," says Rae.
There are a few mistakes to avoid here, which include "over-buffing the nail, which can thin and weaken it," says Rae. She also advises making sure your hands and nails are free from any oils or products before applying your base coat or polish, as it can prevent it from adhering to the nail plate. This includes touching your nails, too. "This can leave behind oils, and even natural oils from your fingers can affect longevity," she says.
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4. Apply Base Coat
"Always use a good base coat suited to your nail type," says Rae. Nail strengtheners make great nail base coats if you have weak, bendy nails. "Avoid soaking nails in water right before painting, as nails absorb water and can cause polish to lift once they’re dry," says Rae.
Once your base coat is dry, you can then go in with your favourite nail polish, and finish with a nail top coat.
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4. Hand and Nail Care
The hand and nail care you keep up in between your manicures can go a long way to making your nail prep easier, especially when it comes to your cuticles. "Consistent nail care between manicures also plays a huge role in long-lasting results," says Rae.
"If you have a lot of built-up dead skin, it’s better not try to remove it all in one go," she says. "Establish a hand and nail care routine and allow this to be a gradual process."
Keep a hand cream on your nightstand, in your handbag or at your desk to keep hands and nails hydrated, and consider applying a cuticle oil daily to keep your nails and the surrounding cuticle soft and free from dry skin. Be mindful of cleaning products that can dry out your hands, and wear gloves if you're doing housework to protect your hands and nails.
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