Lighter evenings, warmer (read: not freezing) days and bulbs bravely pushing up through the soil—there’s just something about spring. And, yes, there’s something about summer, autumn and winter too, but when spring opens a sleepy, daffodil-filled eye, it feels like we breathe a collective sigh of relief. Newness! Freshness! All of it on the cusp of spilling over into a long, hazy summer. It feels like magic, doesn't it?
As an admittedly low-key beauty editor, I find the same energy slips into how I feel about my appearance. The scraggly ends I’ve been manhandling into a claw clip suddenly feel suffocating, and only a big(ish) chop will do. Cuticles are moisturised and makeup bags are emptied, picked through and cleaned. The energy I have to give these small things doubles and almost always coincides with the fast-forwarding of our clocks.
So, as I do most years, I spent the last weeks of winter trawling through Instagram and Pinterest searching for the rejuvenation my spring-ready self was craving. Below, I'm sharing just that: the trending spring makeup looks set to take over this season.
1. Red-naissance
If the clean-girl movement dictated a lack of lip besides the sheen of a tinted gloss, then you'll be pleased to learn that this spring is about the resurgence of colour. Red, to be specific. And matte red, to be even more specific. In recent weeks, Sadie Sink, Carey Mulligan, Alexandra Shipp and Bruna Marquezine have all been sporting a range of reds on their lips. From fire engine and cherry to strawberry and pillar box, the variety of reds is something of a refreshing change. A gear-shift away from the minimal, pared-back vibe of 2023, it's time to embrace the timelessly sensual, powerful and elegant red lip.
Make-up artist and 19/99 Beauty head artist Simone Otis says preparation is key when it comes to minimising the "bleed" that can happen with matte lipsticks. You know—when it looks as if you’ve spent an evening in close quarters with a bottle of grenache. To start, she says exfoliating any dry or flaky skin away has to be the first step, followed by a hydrating lip balm. For my fellow regular re-appliers and lip balm addicts, 19/99 Beauty Lip Ointment (£18) is, hands down, the best I’ve ever used. And I’m not a product monogamist, so know that my recommendation comes with years of qualifiers to back it up.
"When choosing a matte red lipstick, pick formulas enriched with hydrating ingredients like shea butter or vitamin E," says Otis. "This will stop them from feeling (and looking) overly dry. Next, use a lip liner to define the edges then go in with a matte lipstick and small lip brush for precise application." I use a brush to buff the colour into my lips for a wash of blurred, diffused colour; like a stain but infinitely softer. "Finally, blot the lips with a tissue to remove any excess and swipe on a final thin layer of lipstick. This will keep the richness of the colour without the heaviness," says Otis.
Shop the Look:
This intensely nourishing, never-sticky, lasts-all-night lip balm smooths onto the lips without sheen or shine, simply giving the soft, plump hydration of your lips on their best day. Trust me on this one.
New from make-up artist Gucci Westman's eponymous brand, this matte lipstick feels like a slice of luxury, even when nestled at the bottom of your handbag. It contains hyaluronic acid and meadowfoam extract, as well as what they call "Hydro-Suede" technology to create a smudge-proof matte finish without any dryness.
Bring back a little Old Hollywood glamour with this hydrating, comfortable cherry-red matte lipstick.
2. EBTE (Everything But the Eyes)
Eyes or lips, says the adage. And whilst most directives should be shrugged off (and quickly, too), this one we’re taking note of when it comes to the eyes, in particular. In Mexico recently for the Dune: Part Two press tour, Florence Pugh stepped out without mascara, something her makeup artist Alex Babsky described as "super fresh." As a card-carrying member of the no-eye-makeup club, I have to agree. The sparseness—save for perhaps a neutral shadow—paired with a richly coloured lip looks elegant and intentional; as if you'd slipped to sleep in London and woken up in Le Marais.
The trick, though, is making sure the face looks balanced rather than like you’ve forgotten half your makeup in the process. Otis says to play with textures to keep the trend looking deliberate. "If the eyes are kept minimal, opt for a glossy or shimmery finish on the lips to draw attention to them," she advises. "Additionally, applying highlighter to the high points of the face, such as the cheekbones and cupid's bow, can further enhance the overall radiance and draw focus away from the eyes."
Shop the Look:
Easy to scribble over the face, this dewy highlighter stick from Victoria Beckham Beauty makes achieving a sun-kissed glow simple. Sweep the stick over the high points of the lips, cheeks, brows and nose for a luminous, light-reflecting glow.
For when you want a little zhuzh without doing too much, this clear mascara nourishes lashes (and brows), providing a gentle hold in the process.
New from the UV geniuses over at SPF brand Supergoop!, this riff on the original and best-selling Glowscreen is tinted and imbued with a hint of golden, luminous colour. Pop on before your make-up (its designed to be worn as a primer/SPF duo) for a glow that shines through all day.
3. '70s Revival
We had the return of the '90s, then the '00s and now the '70s are calling. Pastel blues, terracotta oranges and warm, pink-toned browns have stretched from this season's runways through to influencers and beauty creators. But is there a way to make these colours feel more grown-up? Can we return to brighter, bolder colours without losing elegance or sophistication? Definitely. Take blue, for example.
"Consider pairing bold eye shadows with neutral tones," says Otis. "Use taupe or beige shades in the crease to create depth and balance out the intensity of the blue. Blending helps avoid harsh lines and achieve a seamless transition between colours." When it comes to the rest of the face, Otis says to choose a subtle, natural-toned blush. It’ll keep your makeup looking harmonious without drawing attention away from the colour.
Shop the Look:
Forget faffing around with a pot and a brush—simply swipe this clever pen over your eyelids and then use the pads of your fingers to pat it out into a wash of spring-perfect colour.
A liquid eye shadow that dries down to a soft but colour-rich matte, use this over the lid or with a small brush to line just the top lash line for a subtle pop of colour.
4. The Soft Bombshell
Think mob wife meets "latte" makeup. She’s sculpted, smokey and soft, replete with smudged browns, deep purples and warm, muted reds. Forget lashings of black eyeliner or high-gloss, high-shine lipsticks; the soft bombshell look relies on carrying the tones used on the cheeks through to the eyes and lips (and vice versa).
So, put away your black eyeliner—liquid or otherwise—and pick up the products that lend themselves to creating shadow without any harsh lines or dramatic contrast. Instead, go for a creamy contour that’s indecipherable on your skin (you were born with those cheekbones, no?); a brown eye shadow or eye pencil that you sweep on top of the lid as well as underneath (key to adding definition) and a low-key lip that mimics the tones found in your skin with a touch of something extra.
Shop the Look:
If I leave the house and this isn't in my pocket, I turn back around. It's that good. The moisture of a lip balm with the shine of a gloss and the colour of a lipstick—consider me sold. This shade, Trace 105, is my go-to. It's close enough to a nude that it goes with everything but near enough to brown that it makes it look as if I've made much more effort than I have.
When it comes to contouring, don't skip your lower lash line; something this handy eye shadow stick makes a doddle. Swiping a line of brown underneath the eye will define your lashes in a subtly, beautifully smokey way.
