Confession time: As a beauty editor who chats with industry-leading derms and celebrity estheticians more often than I talk to my parents (sorry, mom and dad!), I'm still confused about retinol. How does retinol differ from Retin-A? How and when should it be applied? Who should or shouldn't use it? Is this how Nancy Wheeler felt when she stepped into the Upside Down for the first time? (I mean, we've all heard retinoid-related horror stories involving irritation, peeling, and the like.)
That said, I've reached the exact age experts say to start using retinol, and considering my complexion is often bogged down by annoying congestion and dullness, adding retinol into my nightly lineup has been on my to-do list for a while now. There are tons of amazing formulas out there, and some of the best ones come in the form of easy-to-use serums. Since I'm lucky enough to have some of the best skin experts in the industry on speed dial, it only made sense to reach out for guidance.
From the basics of retinol to the exact serums the pros use on themselves, we have you covered. Keep scrolling for everything you've ever wanted to know about retinol serums, plus the best picks to get you started.
What is retinol and how does it affect the skin?
According to celebrity esthetician Vanessa Hernandez, who has her own skincare practice in Brentwood, California, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and is a softer, gentler version of Retin-A. As for its many benefits, it naturally exfoliates the top layer of skin, which in turn exposes a clear, glowing, more youthful complexion.
Oh, we're not done. She tells us the buzzy ingredient can also help minimize the appearance of pores, soften fine lines, kill acne-causing bacteria, and promote cell turnover. Plus, it has been clinically proven to be one of the most effective products in the role of anti-aging.
As for how retinol serums are different than other retinoids, the primary difference is that they don't require a prescription and are typically gentler since they're paired with other ingredients to soothe and nourish the skin. They're also approved for daily use since they're less intense.
"Retinol serums are a great option if you are prone to congestion and breakouts since they won't have oils and will likely feel lighter on the skin in comparison to a retinol-containing cream," says Vanessa Lee, RN, founder of L.A. beauty concept bar The Things We Do.
"If you're dry and want something that feels richer on the skin and contains some kind of moisturizing ingredient, a retinol cream (versus a serum) may be a better choice for you," Lee adds. "They both aim for the same result, but the two different carriers of the retinol are suitable for different skin types. It's great to have choices!"
How and when to apply retinol:
"Retinol serums should be used at night after you cleanse and before you moisturize," confirms celebrity esthetician Shani Darden. Since our skin is in repair mode overnight, that's the most beneficial time to use a retinol serum. Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it's best to leave it for nighttime only and make sure you're wearing sunscreen during the day.
If you have extra-sensitive skin, however, heed Lee's advice and apply your retinol over your moisturizer of choice. "I usually educate patients on putting on treatment serums directly after washing the face, but vitamin A is a strong ingredient, and it can actually penetrate through your moisturizer," she tells us. "If you're extra sensitive, you can also use your favorite facial oil a few minutes after you place your retinol on."
That said, Lee points out that women who are pregnant or breastfeeding are advised to skip retinol since what we put on our skin can enter our bloodstream and, in turn, our baby's bloodstream. For the most part (as long as you tread carefully with high-quality formulas), anyone can use retinol serums.
"Even clients with sensitive skin can benefit from retinol if used less frequently and in lower doses," she explains. "You have the control, so it's all about getting started slowly and graduating in frequency and/or strength as you continue. I recommend my patients to start using a gentle retinol serum once to twice a week for a few weeks and using it up to three to four times a week as tolerated."
For best results, it's also imperative to keep an eye on your skin and how it's reacting to your retinol application. They're designed to be exfoliating, so if you get slightly dry or irritated while the dead skin cells are being shed from the retinol use, make sure to use a soothing serum or moisturizer or even hydrocortisone 1% as a spot treatment.
Lee assures us that this is all par for the course when using retinol. With the right TLC, you'll still be able to reap all the amazing benefits. Oh, and make sure to wear a good sunscreen every single day! That's nonnegotiable.
Tips on shopping for the best retinol serums:
"I always look to see if retinol is within the first five to seven ingredients listed, which will ensure that retinol's a priority ingredient for the product," Lee advises. "However, because retinol can go by so many names (retinyl acetate, propionic acid, retinol, etc.) and percentages, [and because] retinol disclosure isn't required for OTC products by the FDA, it can be a bit confusing on what to look out for in the ingredients."
Lee recommends choosing a retinol serum from a company you already love and trust and have experience with as far as products go. Since most trustworthy skincare brands have some kind of retinol formula, she recommends starting your research there and discussing your options with a dermatologist or esthetician.
Below, Lee, Hernandez, and Darden share the best retinol serums they use or recommend to their clients. I've also included a few beauty editor favorites.
Best Overall: Paula's Choice Resist Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum
Pros: Addresses wrinkles, fine lines, and uneven texture; contains brightening vitamin C; infused with antioxidants and hydrating ingredients.
Cons: Formula may be too strong for some.
"I love this retinol serum because it's extremely gentle and packed with antioxidants and vitamin C," Hernandez says.
Customer Review: "I'm not usually one to leave reviews, but this serum is worth it. It goes on as an oil and dries like a rich cream. AMAZING!"
Best for Beginners: Shani Darden Retinol Reform
Pros: Great for beginners; encapsulated technology helps mitigate potential irritation; contains AHAs to further smooth and exfoliate skin.
Cons: May be too strong for hypersensitive skin, expensive.
"This is a great retinol that combines with fan-favorite lactic acid for major brightening and is stabilized at a low pH for even deeper exfoliation," Lee says. "Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that helps with brightening the skin as well as preventing acne, so pairing this with retinol is a winning combo."
"Retinol Reform was the first product I ever released," Darden notes. "I created Retinol Reform to provide all of the benefits of a prescription retinol without any of the drawbacks. It features lactic acid to provide immediate brightening benefits and retinol for more long-term results."
Customer Review: "I absolutely love, love, love this product. It's now my go-to brand for retinol. My skin is clearer and more radiant."
Best Drugstore: CeraVe Retinol Serum
Pros: Contains encapsulated retinol to mitigate irritation, licorice root for additional brightening benefits, and three essential skin barrier protecting ceramides.
Cons: Takes a while to see results for some.
CeraVe's retinol is encapsulated for a slow delivery that won't irritate the skin as much. We also love that it contains skin barrier restoring ceramides to help protect the skin against pollutants and skin-irritating bacteria.
Customer Review: "My face sweats a lot at work for hours, and I get more sun than my fair skin needs. When I sweat, I break out pretty much guaranteed. Washing my face more wasn't helping and I think I was drying out my skin, so I couldn't win whatever I did. I put this on in the morning now and I don't see new zits after work even with the sweat. I just pat the sweat off with a paper towel rather than wash [my face] constantly, so this product stays on. No bad reactions either, it's simply improving my skin and preventing new clogged pores."
Best for Sensitive Skin: SkinMedica Retinol Complex 0.25
Pros: Great for beginners and sensitive skin; encapsulated in hyaluronic acid spheres for extra hydration; contains an additional antioxidant complex to enhance texture and mitigate irritation.
Cons: Expensive.
"My fave by far," Hernandez raves. "This retinol is encapsulated in spheres of hyaluronic acid, making it gentle yet hydrating. It's formulated to time-release over eight hours, meaning it's penetrating more evenly into the skin, thus giving better results."
Customer Review: "I've tried different retinol brands, but this is my favorite. It goes on smoothly and is well absorbed by my dry/psoriasis patchy skin. I feel like it even improves those patches. This one is a keeper. "
More Expert-Loved Retinol Serums
Pros: Contains a 6.5% advanced retinoid complex, hydrating honey, and youth-enhancing CoQ10.
Cons: Expensive.
"This retinol serum has a combination of CoQ10, which helps UV-exposed skin, and Hawaiian white honey, which is rich in phytonutrients to help protect the skin while exfoliating," Lee tells us.
Customer Review: "This is a great retinol formula. I like to switch between this and Retin-A and the combination has done wonders on my skin. It's good for my sensitive skin and effective enough that I see visible results. I’ve tried several retinols, and this is by far one of my favorites."
Pros: Budget-friendly; contains a retinoid complex designed to help reduce irritation and sensitivity.
Cons: Doesn't work as well for dark spots.
The Ordinary (the internet's budget-friendly skincare fave) offers this granactive retinoid emulsion designed to help even the skin tone and improve the appearance of wrinkles without irritation.
Customer Review: "I have been using this product for two months now. I have been very happy with the results. My skin tone and wrinkles [have] radically improved. I followed the CTTM routine (cleanse, tone, treat, moisturize). It is working well."
Pros: Contains niacinamide and stabilized vitamin C for additional anti-aging benefits; helps lighten hyperpigmentation; magnolia bark extract soothes and calms redness; minimizes dryness; adds hydration to the skin.
Cons: Expensive.
"This retinol serum is a luxe option that combines pure retinol with magnolia bark, vitamin C, and coffee for extra firming and brightening," says Lee. "Chantecaille is known for its pure, botanical-based ingredients in skincare and makeup, and this retinol is not to be skipped."
Customer Review: "This product saved my skin. In just two weeks my skin went from acne-scarred, discolored, and, frankly, ugly to smooth and even-toned. My makeup goes on like a dream but I barely need any foundation after years of wearing layers and layers. I can't recommend this product enough."
Pros: Budget-friendly; helps reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles; gentle enough for daily use.
Cons: May be too strong for hypersensitive skin.
RoC offers another great budget retinol that's perfect for mature skin types. It's designed to help improve the appearance of deep wrinkles but is gentle enough for daily use.
Customer Review: "I used this as my night cream and I think it's helped keep my skin smooth. This is a mostly gentle formula, but get the half-strength version first and use that one for a little while before you use this one. I sometimes get a tiny bit of sensitivity around my eye and that was the advice that Roc gave me and I think it's accurate. Love it."
Pros: Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and discoloration around the eye area; great for sensitive eyes; boosts hydration; brightens.
Cons: Expensive.
"This eye gel has retinyl palmitate along with vitamins C and E to minimize the appearance of fine lines and boost hydration," Darden explains.
Customer Review: "So far the best eye product for my dark circles. Fully recommend. Very gentle and good for sensitive eyes."
Pros: Improves the appearance of fine lines, pores, and blemishes; noncomedogenic formula; helps minimize breakouts.
Cons: Expensive, not the best option for beginners.
"This retinol is the next step up for someone who's been using a gentle retinol .25 or less and is ready to up their anti-aging game," says Hernandez.
Customer review: "I have been using this product for about a year now and I love it! It definitely makes a difference [in] fine lines and it helps me with little white under-skin pimples!"
Pros: Gentle botanical complex with vitamin A rich ingredients; targets visible signs of aging; contains six sources of vitamins and minerals to smooth skin's texture.
Cons: Expensive.
"This clean, nourishing face oil has 18 highly concentrated performance botanicals, vitamins, and minerals," Hernandez tells us. "It's gentle and restorative."
Customer Review: "Amazing and natural. I use it at night and my skin just absorbs it. The scent is also a plus!"
Pros: Contains both retinol and retinal for maximum efficacy; squalane to deliver retinoids more deeply into the skin and hydrate; and antioxidants to support skin health and stabilize the retinoids.
Cons: Expensive.
This innovative formula with an encapsulated duo of time-release retinol and retinal is clinically proven to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration, and texture with minimal irritation.
Customer Review: "I was hesitant to try this at first because I have very sensitive skin. At first, I was using it twice a week; now I'm using it every night and my skin has never looked better! It looks and feels healthier, glowier, and fresher."
This article was originally published at an earlier date and has since been updated.
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