Certain runway collections are more memorable than others, and then there's Tom Ford's fall 1995 collection for Gucci. It wasn't Ford's first collection for the brand—he was given his seat at the helm of the Italian fashion house in 1994—but it is undoubtedly his most famous, and it's the one that fashion people refer back to most often when discussing his monumental 10-year tenure as Gucci's creative director. (The designer stepped down in 2004, founding his namesake brand a year later.) Why was fall 1995 so significant? It was the start of something new—a complete departure from Gucci's previous look.
Suddenly, fabrics were translucent and slinkier, and necklines were lower and more revealing. Throughout the collection's runway debut, one sleek, sexy garment kept popping up: almost entirely unbuttoned collared knits styled with low and stretchy trousers, fitted suits, and rich fur jackets. To this day, whenever I see anything even remotely like them, I think of this exact collection by Ford. Recently, I've been seeing them everywhere.
Helena Christensen for Gucci Fall 1995
Amber Valletta for Gucci Fall 1995
Unfortunately for big, chunky sweaters, the trend pendulum appears to be swinging away from all things oversize and toward fitted, sleek alternatives like those sultry collared silhouettes at Gucci's show back in '95. A leader in the cause is—big surprise—Sabato De Sarno, Gucci's current creative director, whose work at the house has been compared to Ford's on several occasions. De Sarno's debut collection for spring/summer 2024 included multiple low-cut, unbuttoned polo-neck sweaters styled with tiny leather shorts and pencil skirts. His Pre-Fall 25 collection likewise featured the knitwear design worn underneath a furry, patterned jacket with green split-hem trousers and sneakers.
Gucci S/S 24
Gucci Pre-Fall 25
As a result, more and more brands across the industry have followed suit, and shoppable options in both cardigan and pullover versions are making frequent appearances at popular retailers, from Reformation and J.Crew to Net-a-Porter and Nordstrom. By the final weeks of 2024, many of the most-wanted pieces had already sold out, making room for fresh alternatives this year, many of which are likely to meet the same fate. Scroll down to shop them before that happens.
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