Is there a perfect evening skincare routine? In short, there's one that can definitely work for you, but no two skincare routines are the same. If the evening skincare products that once worked for you haven't been giving what they should be giving lately, there's a good chance it's because they need an update. Your skin, like all organs, is subject to change and needs specific support.
Luckily, finding the right product lineup for your evenings can transform your skin and, with some expert guidance, isn't nearly as hard as you may suspect. I tapped two board-certified dermatologists and an aesthetician for their advice on how to completely transform the way you think of your evening skincare routine. Keep reading to discover the steps you should be taking and the holy-grail products to consider using pre beauty sleep.
What Should Be in an Evening Skincare Routine?
"An evening skincare routine should always begin with cleansing the skin of oil, dirt, makeup, and other pollutants that may have accumulated on the face during the course of the day," board-certified dermatologist Julia Schwartz MD, FAAD, explains. This step is vital to make sure your skin is fresh, healthy, and ready for the active ingredients to follow. Next, Schwartz recommends applying a toner and serum, focusing on using your skincare products from thinnest to thickest for them to be most effective.
If appropriate for your skin type, follow up with retinol (or a retinol alternative) to renew the skin and promote epidermal cellular turnover. Finish off your evening skincare with an ultra-nourishing moisturizer, and gently dab on an eye cream to help combat fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles. "Moisturizing is a crucial step in the skincare routine especially if you have dry skin or are using active ingredients that can irritate the skin barrier," Schwartz says. Is your skin craving extra moisture? It might be time to add a sleeping mask or overnight treatment.
Tailoring the Routine to Your Skincare Needs
Celebrity aesthetician Ian Michael Crumm encourages tailoring your routine to your skin's specific needs, as everyone's skin is unique. "If you have specific skin concerns, consult with a dermatologist or aesthetician for personalized guidance," he suggests. If you have aging skin, for example, Crumm recommends opting for products with retinol, peptides, and antioxidants. In that same vein, your skin type (combination, dry, oily, or normal) should be taken into consideration while piecing together an effective evening skincare routine. Even a change in weather pattern or season can influence the behavior of your skin! Your age can also majorly influence what products should be a part of your nightly skincare routine.
Up until a couple years ago, my skin type was normal, but within a month or so of my 24th birthday, I noticed it was feeling a lot drier, which called for transitioning products in and out of my skincare routine. For dry skin types, board-certified dermatologist Teresa Song, MD, FAAD, of Marmur Medical recommends using a non-foaming, hydrating cleanser followed by moisturizer, retinol, and then a second application of moisturizer, also known as the sandwich method, to offset potential retinoid irritation. "If still feeling dry, one can even add in a hydrating serum prior to moisturizer application," says Song.
Alternatively, oily and acne-prone skin can benefit the most from foaming or non-foaming cleansers alternated with a sulfur-based face wash twice a week. According to Song, if cream-based moisturizers feel too heavy, but your skin tolerates retinol well, consider moisturizers with water-gel textures. If you fall into this category, prescription retinoid usage may also be effective. Unsure of where to start? There's a fast and easy way to determine which products to try without breaking the bank or putting your skin's health at risk.
Revamping the Evening Product Lineup
Song suggests simplifying your routine by using up the products you have and then adding one new product at a time, identifying repeated ingredients. "To ensure products are helpful, look for the key essential ingredients that will benefit your routine," Song explains. "If budgeting, I would recommend spending less on the face wash and more on the retinoid and moisturizer. I also recommend patients to potentially try a travel size or obtain samples before making a full purchase, or seek advice from a board-certified dermatologist to go over your routine."
Schwartz agrees and says using redundant active ingredients is one of the biggest faux pas in a skincare routine. "An acne face wash, spot treatment, and cream that all have the same ingredient, salicylic acid. I love salicylic acid for acne, but it is probably overkill to use it in three steps of your routine," she says. At its heart, a simple evening skincare routine should have a cleanser, a treatment, and a moisturizer. Schwartz also recommends adding a retinoid (aka, the holy grail of all anti-aging products). She cites retinoids as playing a vital role in skin rejuvenation and decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles paired with a skin-barrier-supporting moisturizer.
Don't be afraid to ask your dermatologist for guidance—that's what they're there for. If you have any doubts about the products you should be using, need help determining your skin type, or have general questions about the steps in a skincare routine, they're the best source. To find out how to create the "perfect" evening skincare routine with the help of dermatologists and an aesthetician, however, you're in the right place. Below are the steps and products you should consider using nightly before you hit the sheets.
The Prep: Makeup Removal
One of Crumm's favorites, this oil-free makeup remover by Clinique effortlessly dissolves long-wearing makeup with a powerful formula that's gentle on the skin. It's tug-free, nonirritating, and non-stinging. In other words, the makeup remover is the perfect product for anyone with sensitive skin.
Crumm also recommends this micellar water makeup remover by Bioderma. Simply soak a cotton pad in Sensibio H20 to rid your skin of makeup, pollution, and impurities. It's formulated at skin's pH level, does not require any rinsing, and is safe for use morning and evening.
As a beauty editor, I always invest in high-performance makeup removers I can trust to prep my skin for the products to follow without leaving any residue. Elemis is at the top of my list since it uses peony extract to hydrate the skin and blends white tea and vitamin B5 to condition my lashes.
Step 1: Cleanse the Skin
After removing your makeup, it's time to cleanse. Song loves this extremely gentle face wash to help remove excess oil and impurities while supporting your skin barrier. Developed specifically with dry skin in mind, the face wash's milky-cream texture hydrates and soothes without leaving any pore-clogging residue.
It's no secret that daily grime and environmental aggressors can contribute to a disrupted skin barrier. Using this Elemis facial wash can help counter it by acting as a revitalizing green juice for the face. It's absolutely packed with nutrient-rich superfoods and supported with an active prebiotic to maintain a healthy balance in your skin's microflora.
I've always been partial to gel cleansers, but speaking with skincare experts has fully convinced me that gel cleansers can work wonders for all skin types. This SkinCeuticals gel cleanser removes all impurities, dirt, and grime without stripping your skin of its moisture. It's formulated with glycolic and phytic acids to dissolve dead skin cells for a bright and even complexion.
Step 2: Use an Exfoliant
According to experts, you should be exfoliating at least two to three times a week so the rest of your evening skincare can do its job. Versed's exfoliating cleanser—one of Crumm's top picks—unclogs pores and gently buffs away dull skin cells with superfine microcrystals and an antioxidant-rich mix of black currant and raspberry that can be used on acne-prone and sensitive skin.
Chemical exfoliants like this one by Paula's Choice can remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and visibly smooth wrinkles. One of Crumm's go-tos, this product is a leave-on exfoliant that uses a powerful combination of 2% salicylic acid and green tea to target large pores, uneven skin textures, acne, and blemishes.
Step 3: Refresh With Toner
This hydrating toner by Kat Burki provides a daily dose of vitamins to your skin and encourages deeper absorption of your skincare products. It floods the skin with botanical hyaluronic acid, cucumber hydrosols, and colloidal silver to reduce inflammation and keep the skin clean. It can be sprayed directly onto the skin or into the palms first and then pressed into your skin.
Did you know that some toners can multitask as gentle exfoliants? This one by Kiehl's refines the skin's texture, making it visibly smoother, softer, and brighter with a formula that, according to the brand, "refines like a peel and replenishes like a milk." It's gentle enough for everyday use and dissolves impurities while working to replenish moisture levels.
Caudalie's fragrance-free toner is powered by a formula with natural salicylic acid, an essential oil complex, and grape and rose water to exfoliate, visibly reduce oil, and minimize the appearance of pores and blemishes. It's also noncomedogenic.
Step 4: Lock in Moisture
This ultra-rich moisturizer provides hydration, prevents moisture loss, and improves smoothness with high levels of antioxidant vitamins and moisturizing ingredients like sodium hyaluronate. It can be applied twice daily after cleansing and toning. It's no wonder Song considers this a must-have product.
Schwartz introduced me to this amazing Enriching Cream from the direct-to-patient healthcare company Ro. Crafted with ceramide NP and phytosterols for all-day hydration, the cream is the dermatologist-backed companion to the brand's prescription retinoid product: the Custom Rx Treatment. Not only does the Enriching Cream help support the skin barrier, but it also reduces the look of flakiness and dryness.
I don't mind a hefty price tag as long as the product is high-performing. This Perricone MD moisturizer has powerful antioxidants and a moisturizing complex to deliver deep hydration and nourishment to the skin. Additionally, its peptides work to support suppleness while the addition of vitamin C and a vegetable blend brighten and support the skin barrier.
The Inkey's List rich, velvety, anti-aging moisturizer holds the key to defending visible signs of aging: bio-active ceramides. The powerful formula strengthens the skin barrier, provides 24-hour hydration, and instantly blurs the appearance of fine lines thanks to the addition of gransil blur and shea butter. For best results, use in your AM and PM skincare routine for four weeks and follow with the brand's Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30.
Optional: Apply Eye Cream
Crumm is a huge fan of Goldfaden MD's advanced brightening eye treatment. It instantly reduces the appearance of dark circles, fine lines, and puffiness with a formula using soy peptide, organic red tea, jojoba oil, and more for intense hydration and firmness. I got my hands on this to combat my dark circles and saw a major improvement in minutes.
There are a number of highly effective eye creams that use retinol to smooth and tighten the skin around and under the eyes. RoC's best-selling Retinol Correction Eye Cream is gentle enough for daily use and clinically proven to rejuvenate the delicate skin of the eye area. It's also non-greasy, hypoallergenic, and noncomedogenic.
Optional: Reverse Time With Retinol
Song sings the praises of this overnight retinol cream to target photodamage, lines, wrinkles, and uneven tone and texture. It's uniquely formulated with an ingredient that combines retinoid and AHA for visible skin rejuvenation with little to no irritation. Keep in mind that when using any retinoid product, it's a good practice to protect the skin with sunscreen.
Last, Crumm suggests giving this Ordinary retinoid product a try if you're looking to incorporate one in your well-rounded evening skincare routine. Ideal for all skin types, the retinoid active used in its formula helps to avoid the irritation associated with retinoid, allowing for better reduction in visible signs of aging.
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