I just moved back to the Midwest from a long stint in Los Angeles and then Austin, Texas. It goes without saying, but both are very warm and sunny cities. After a few months in the colder, cloudier Midwest, I noticed I lacked my once long-running glow. When I looked in the mirror, I was kind of shocked at how pale and dull my skin looked. It wasn't like I was out sunbathing every day when I lived elsewhere—quite the opposite. I religiously wore sunscreen and sought shade whenever I could. However, the sunlight and warm temperatures still made a difference. When I didn't have them anymore, it was time for self-tanner.
Self-tanner is great in theory, but in practice, it can get a little sketchy. As a novice, I didn't want to end up with streaks, patchiness, or an unnaturally orange hue. So before I reached for any products, I sought advice from two experts. Ahead, they share five insider tips for ensuring a flawless tan every damn time.
1. Skin Prep Is Essential
Isle of Paradise creator and celebrity tanning expert Jules Von Hep says, "Skin prep is KEY!" He recommends exfoliating and shaving or waxing 24 hours prior to applying self-tanner "along with any facial treatments or mani/pedis."
St. Tropez skin finishing expert Sophie Evans agrees. "For ultimate results, it is best to exfoliate the day before, not immediately before you tan," she says. This is due to how exfoliants change the pH of the skin. Since "self-tan loves skin when it is at its most neutral pH level," she says, exfoliating too close to application could hinder the development and longevity of results.
Finally, Evans says it's important to "ensure there are no oils, deodorant, or makeup on your skin before applying," and however counterintuitive it may sound, apply moisturizer to dry areas. Yep, that's right. "Apply a non-oil-based body moisturizer to elbows, knees, hands, back of wrist, feet, back of heels, and any severe dry areas. Never apply moisturizer to your whole body, as moisturizer dilutes self-tan, but moisturizing these areas is essential! The skin in these areas absorbs tan fast and will develop darker than the rest of the body if no moisturizer is applied."
2. The Right Tools Can Make or Break Your Tan
If you want a truly seamless, professional-looking result, you need to use the right tools. Trust me, don't try to self-tan if you're brazenly unprepared; I found out the hard way that you'll end up hating the result and wanting to scrub the color from your skin. People might even look at you worryingly and ask, "What happened to your skin?" Yep, this actually happened to me after a bad self-tan, and I've never forgotten it. To avoid that nightmarish situation, here's Von Hep's checklist for the best at-home self-tanning experience (and result):
-Applicator mitt
-Blending brush
-Cleansing balm or micellar water
-Moisturizer
-Baby powder
-Beach towel to put on the floor (if using a tanning mist)
-Tanning pajamas (preferably long-sleeve cotton to let the skin breathe as the tan develops)
3. Choose the Self-Tanning Product You'll Be Most Comfortable With
Both experts say there's no one self-tanning product that works for everyone, and that's because it comes down to preference. Some people prefer traditional tanning mousse. Others prefer tanning water or lotion. "It can be heavily down to personal choice and what format you as an individual feel comfortable with," Von Hep says. "As a rule, if you've never in your life used self-tan before, I recommend self-tan water with an applicator to blend. He likes the Isle of Paradise Self-Tanning Water ($32). [Editor's note: If you want some extra direction, check out Von Hep's self-tanning tutorial for first-timers.]
As for Evans, she recommends beginners use a tanning mousse—specifically the St. Tropez Classic Bronzing Mousse ($44), since "it has a non-scary guide color (built-in bronzer) so you can see where you have applied it. Your skin looks great from the get-go!"
You could also use St. Tropez Express Bronzing Mousse ($46). Evans says this one will "give you three tan shades in one bottle. If you apply and rinse after one hour, you will develop a light glow. Two hours leaves a medium glow. Or leave for three for your deepest glow. One shade suits all with St. Tropez as the color develops to suit your skin and your pigmentation."
Von Hep recommends spraying this tanning water on liberally after you've completed skin prep. "Your skin should be saturated once finished," he says. "After applying, take an applicator mitt or blending brush and sweep the product all over the skin to blend, remembering to do under the arms and all over your legs (front, sides, back—the lot!)."
To use it on your face, simply mist it like you would a hydrating toner. "For hands and feet, run the mitt over these areas to lightly apply using the residue product left on the mitt," Von Hep says. "Wipe your palms and in between fingers and nails to remove excess tan and ensure the final color looks natural."
This is the mousse Evans recommended. Here's how she recommends using it. "Start with the legs and use a two-pump-per-limb rule," she says. "Always work with a flat hand and light stroke. You never want to pull at the skin, as over-rubbing and lack of product is what makes self-tan streak."
Don't be afraid to load up the mitt to avoid those dreaded streaks and smooth it lightly over the limbs. "Always stop hard at the ankles or wrists and make sure no product has gone onto the hands or feet," she says. "Ensure these areas have been moisturized prior. Check what you have left on your mitt; we only want the excess. Glide down, blending in between toes and fingers. … Hands and feet develop a lot darker than the rest of the body. Hence we use such little diluted tan in these areas. Once feet and hands are applied, take a cleansing wipe and wipe clean cuticles, nails, heel crease, and palms."
Whether you're using the original or the express, Evans has a little trick for creating a seamless result. She recommends blending a little moisturizer up the heal crease, from the palm into the wrist crease, and over any other dry areas. "This will make your tan seamless," she says. "Hands we always tan last. Once one hand is tanned wait 60 seconds before placing in the mitt to tan the other hand."
If a self-tanning lotion is more your speed (personally, I like these as a beginner because the color develops gradually and they're usually fairly foolproof), I recommend this one. Not only does it smell amazing, but it leaves a golden, sun-kissed tint behind.
I've also used this mousse, which has a dark guide color to help you see exactly where you're putting it and where you need to blend it out, so you don't end up with a patchy, irregular tan.
4. Wear Loose, Breathable Clothing Until the Tan Develops (and Avoid Getting Wet at All Costs)
Once your tanning product of choice is applied, avoid wearing tight or stuffy clothing. Instead, opt for something lightweight and breathable. Von Hep recommends wearing long-sleeve, 100% cotton pajamas so the skin can breathe as the tan develops. I like to wear dark-colored pajamas. That way, they don't show stains if I'm using a self-tanner that has a guide color.
The only thing you need to do until the tan develops is to avoid getting wet. Doing so will cause the tan to smear, streak, look patchy, or generally just not develop correctly. "You can't get wet as the tan develops, so if you love your exercise, work out prior to tan application," Von Hep says. "Don't worry, once it's developed, you're ready to go with your workouts again."
5. Apply a Non-Oil-Based Moisturizer Every Day to Maintain Results
To maintain results for as long as possible, apply a moisturizer every single day once you get out of the shower. But not just any moisturizer. Evans recommends using a non-oil-based one. "Be gentle with your skin, so pat to dry—do not rub."
She also recommends using a light exfoliator every few days to keep your tan looking even, as "tight clothing and exercise can fade areas faster."
As for Von Hep, he also recommends applying moisturizer daily, "along with avoiding bodywashes that contain harsh soaps, exfoliants, or oils that might strip your tan more quickly."
He also recommends drinking water. "Keep hydrated! Drink that water—happy, hydrated skin won't shed and will hold on to the color for longer."
Oh, and both experts have a nice little trick to extend the life of your tan. They suggest using a gradual tanning lotion or adding a few tanning drops to your moisturizer every few days to boost your glow. "A gradual tan moisturizer like St. Tropez Gradual Tan Classic Daily Firming Lotion ($29) is great to use every few days to boost and maintain your glow," Evans says. Von Hep recommends the Isle of Paradise Body Drops ($38). He adds a few drops into his body lotion every couple of days to top off the color.
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