Gucci and Bottega Ruled 2020, But These Under-the-Radar Italian Brands Are Next

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(Image credit: @garbagecore and c/o Made in Tomboy.)

For emerging and small-scale fashion labels, Milan can be a tough nut to crack. With big players like Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta usually taking center stage at Milan Fashion Week (already one of the most crowded fashion week calendars), it's a difficult task to get the fashion set to take notice without the advantage of big budgets and a celebrity front-row.

While established Italian houses continue to deliver exciting collections, it's important not to ignore the under-the-radar talent that also contributes to Italy's reputation as a go-to for fashion innovation and craftsmanship. In the spirit of always looking for what's next, presenting, seven brands we see as worthy challengers to shake up the Italian fashion scene.

A few have already gained enough momentum and excitement to attract buyers from Matches and Net-a-Porter, so it's only a matter of time before they show up everywhere else. From resort-focused brands like Le Sirenuse Positano to newcomers that champion sustainability like Garbage Core and Gioia Bini, these are the Italian brands to watch.

SARA LANZI

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(Image credit: @saralanzi)

If you can count Rei Kawakubo as a mentor, you know that you've made some sort of impression. Sara Lanzi established her company over a decade ago, but the Italian designer has recently started to make waves on a larger scale, with her collections placing in retailers like Dover Street Market andReplica Store. She's an expert at creating high-impact pieces that require little to no effort to pull off: think whimsical jackets with unique shapes and voluminous dresses. 

MADE IN TOMBOY

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(Image credit: c/o Made in Tomboy)

Turning the world of denim on its head is Made in Tomboy. If you're guessing, the namesake sort of speaks for itself: with super wide-leg jeans and billowy puff sleeve tops, each piece incorporates a masculine flair on classic casual staples. While Italy may not immediately come to mind on the topic of denim, that soon may change. 

GARBAGE CORE

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(Image credit: @garbagecore)

With Milanese label Garbage Core, modern bespoke meets sustainability. Launched by Giuditta Tanzi in 2019, the brand upcycles flea market finds to construct entirely new couture creations. With that in mind, each item is entirely one of a kind, so if you have your eye on something it's best to act fast. We love its homemade appeal with deconstructed seams and asymmetric construction.

GIOIA BINI

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(Image credit: @gioiabini)

If you aim to capture the vintage glamour of Italian film stars on the Amalfi Coast, check out Gioia Bini. The eponymous label from designer Gioia Bini was born out of her childhood travels between Florence and Sub-Saharan Africa. It nails the balance between effortless and elegance with retro-inspired dresses you'd imagine wearing on a yacht in the middle of the Mediterranean. 

LE SIRENUSE POSITANO

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(Image credit: @emporiosirenuse)

Count yourself lucky if you've had the pleasure of staying at Le Sirenuse Positano on Italy's Amalfi Coast. Since travel is virtually off the table, you can at least transport yourself there with the resort's clothing collection, Emporio Le Sirenuse. Of course, there are lots of caftans and easy-breezy tops meant for mornings lounging at the beach, but there are some cool pieces you can easily adapt to your daily wardrobe with the right styling. We love the bright tropical leaning prints and saturated colors. 

BLAZÉ MILANO 

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(Image credit: @blazemilano)

Blaze Milano is already a brand blinking on the radar of most fashion girls, but it's not as much a household name as the Guccis and Pradas of the world. You'll want to keep a note of this brand if you're a fan of elevated separates, and as its name suggests, it's no surprise that tailored blazers are what the brand does exceptionally well. Its funky retro patterns also stand out amid the sea of minimalist leaning brands.

LILITH BY SITA ABELLAN

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(Image credit: Courtesy of Lilith by Sita)

Much like Sita Abellan's eccentric style, Lilith is really not like anything else. The brand—which is handmade in Milan—is inspired by astrology and tarot, with items like earrings emblazoned with painted enamel snakes and gold lunar themed chain belts. Everything comes in at a pretty affordable price point of under $250. 

ZANINI

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(Image credit: @zaninicollection)

An alum of Schiaparelli and Rochas, Marco Zanini was a well-seasoned designer before launching his own label a few years ago. His first collection debuted during the F/W19 season at Milan Fashion Week, prompting praise for its strong tailoring and point of view. For the brand, the fabrics play just as big of a role as the designs themselves: each piece is meant to be elegantly timeless. 

Next: 25 of This Week's Best New Arrivals

Fashion Market Editor

Indya Brown is a fashion editor, stylist, and writer living in Los Angeles. While going to school at Columbia University in New York City, she got her feet wet in the fashion industry interning at Elle magazine, Harper's Bazaar, and New York magazine's The Cut. After graduating in 2016, she joined The Cut as a fashion assistant, eventually working her way up to fashion editor. There, she worked on a multitude of projects, including styling inbook feature stories for New York magazine's print issue, writing and pitching market stories for The Cut, and serving as fashion lead for The Cut's branded content. While New York has been her home for over 10 years, she moved to Los Angeles in the midst of the pandemic in 2020 for a new chapter. Now she is a fashion market editor forBest Knockoff Luxury Clothing , focusing on emerging designers, rising trends on and off the internet, interior design, and BIPOC creatives and brands. Aside from her duties as a fashion market editor, Brown is also a freelance stylist and writer, working on national print and video commercial campaigns for Sephora, The Independent, and Cadillac. Her bylines also include Harper's Bazaar, Vox, and The New York Times. But once the computer goes down and the emails turn off, she's likely eating her way through Koreatown, hunting down vintage furniture, scoping out new outrageous nail designs to try, or taking a hot cycling class.