This French Designer Bag Is Arguably the Most In-Demand in the World—Hint: It’s Not the Hermès Birkin

Ah, the Chanel Classic Flap Bag. Every lover of fashion I've spoken to about this investment bag has a story, whether it's how they came to love it, the painstaking process of acquiring it or how they long to own it.

Personally, my first encounter with Chanel bags was whilst watching The Hills circa 2006, when I became enamoured with Lauren Conrad’s arm candy. That was until I discovered the price tag and swiftly parted with the dream of owning one. Whilst drawing my attention to more attainable investments and slightly more affordable handbag brands, I began to realise the magnitude of the "Chanel effect". The brand's striking design features spearheaded an excess of twisted chains and quilted leather styles, with high-street names and designer brands alike producing their own versions of the iconic shoulder bag.

When it comes to cult fashion items, few garner the same interest as Chanel’s offerings, and of its vast and varied arsenal of bags over the years, the Classic Flap Bag takes the top spot. Refined, plush and statement-making, it’s the coveted companion of many, beloved and recognised worldwide for its aforementioned twisted-chain feature and quilted profile.

Chanel is the crème de la crème of luxury, having spent years pioneering the high-fashion accessory space. It has earned its premium status and so can rest on its laurels, calling upon newcomers, collectors and spectators to marvel at its excellence. Synonymous with opulence and a huge marker of craftspersonship, it is frequently spotted on the arms of celebrities and fashion people worldwide, similar to the appetite for the Maison's classic slingbacks. Although trends have wavered, the effect of Chanel's excellence has withstood the test of time, and the demand for its leather goods has only increased.

Despite the price point, the Chanel Classic Flap Bag continues to be an accessory that commands queues that snake around its flagship stores, from London’s New Bond Street to the flagship Rue Cambon boutique in Paris, with prospective buyers longing to return homebound with the Classic Flap Bag in tow—the ultimate prized possession.

Coming in at between £1000 to £15,000, the first question on many people's lips is whether it’s worth its significant price tag, which has led me to examine the bag's quality and rich history.

So, without further ado, let's delve into the enduring legacy of one of the most in-demand bags in the world. From its origins as a modern wonder to its status as a verified It bag, uncover everything you need to know about the Chanel Classic Flap Bag ahead.

History of the Chanel Classic Flap Bag

The Chanel Classic Flap Bag dates back to 1929. Inspired by military garb, Chanel’s first-ever prototype was crafted from a jersey fabrication, akin to a soldier's weatherproof knapsack, which is a far cry from the 2025 offerings in jewel-toned tweed and supple leather. The styles we’re most familiar with were invented in February 1955, hence their moniker 2.55. However, whilst all 2.55 have a flap, not all Flap Bags are a 2.55. (But more on that later). Conceived by the late Coco Chanel, it was designed to be a reimagined handbag for the modern woman with pragmatism at the forefront, though not sacrificing style.

Although there’s been an evolution of the style throughout the years, from tweed iterations to saturated colour and even a heart-shaped silhouette, its key characteristics have remained, and the Classic Flap remains part of its core collection. Although the design is refined, its features are highly distinguishable, comprising the twisted chain with convertible nodules, soft leather and polished gold-toned hardware (fashioned from real gold no less, before 2008), with, of course, the interlocking "CC" clasp.

What Is the Difference Between the Chanel Classic Flap Bag and the Chanel 2.55?

Like how there are subtle but crucial differences between the Hermès Birkin and Kelly bag, the same can be said for the Chanel Classic Flap Bag and the Chanel 2.55. As mentioned above, the Chanel 2.55 was the luxuriate's debut bag style, meaning that not only was it the first style out of the two to hit shelves, but the first to ever be produced by the legendary house. So, how did it come to be that two nearly identical bags were produced under different names?

Well, that all came to a head in 1983 upon the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld. The German veteran designer took the helm after roles at Chloé and Fendi at the request of the French billionaire businessman and chairman of Chanel, Alain Wertheimer, to revitalise the brand after a period of stagnation.

Lagerfeld was a master of branding, so it was his job to transform the brand's designs into signatures that would be instantly recognisable silhouettes. While the bones were already there with the 2.55, Lagerfeld revitalised the piece, replacing the 2.55's Mademoiselle lock (a more dainty rectangular fastener) with the new interlocking "CC" logo, which he created. Other differences come down to the addition of a leather band that's interwoven through the chain link.

How Much Is a Chanel Classic Flap Bag in 2025?

Years after it launched, the price of the Chanel Classic Flap Bag continues to rise exponentially. In 2025, some Classic Flap Bags begin upwards of £10,000. Luxury experts are dubbing it not only a wardrobe classic but also a sound investment in terms of profitability.

According to Stylight, "There was an increase of 18% in the last four weeks for the search 'Chanel Jumbo Flap Bag' as compared to the previous four weeks in Google searches*." So, the demand for said bags continues to skyrocket.

Weighing in on the iconography of Chanel bags, sustainability expert, fashion commentator and author of Why Don’t I Have Anything To Wear, Andrea Cheong, says, "I purchased my 1996 small Classic Flap in caviar leather secondhand in Japan. I paid about £3800, and I do think it’s worth it. However, that’s in the context of really admiring the style and being interested in purchasing a Chanel bag."

"In my book Why Don’t I Have Anything To Wear, I talk about material versus cultural value and how over time (especially due to social media) we gravitate heavily towards the latter. Chanel straddles this line very well. However, the accessories in particular have, over time, rested quite heavily on [its] status instead of levelling up [its] craftsmanship. Despite people calling this out, it hasn’t affected [its] bottom line," continues Cheong.

Right now, you can purchase the Classic Flap directly from the brand for anywhere between £8000 and £10,000, depending on the size, whilst secondhand iterations retail for around £5000 or more. Ultra-mini iterations are valued at over £3000, too.

How to Purchase a Chanel Classic Flap Bag

There are many ways to experience luxury accessories in 2025, whether you wish to try them before you buy or borrow them for an occasion. The pre-loved market is booming, and the same rings true for rental services.

Cynthia Morrow and Shika Bodani, founders of More Luxury Club, attest to sharing as a sustainable and thriving business model, declaring, "We have seen a demand for Chanel's classic bags, both for their classic appeal and the opportunity to experience these luxury goods without the full financial commitment."

"Our sharing model allows members to own a 20% share of designer handbags, with other luxury lovers, enjoying it for up to 10 weeks per year. Alternatively, members could opt to earn money on their current investment pieces sitting idly in their wardrobes by selling shares in their pieces on the platform. Some of our most sought-after designer bags include Chanel."

If you too are enamoured with the Chanel effect, keep scrolling to shop, rent or simply marvel at the best Chanel offerings the internet has to offer.

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*Statistic denotes the period of September 2023.