Turns Out, Salmon-Sperm Skincare Isn't a Fad—Why It's the Unexpected Shortcut to Glowy Skin

After working in the beauty industry for over a decade, it will come as no surprise to learn that I approach most skincare trends and so-called miracle skincare ingredients with a healthy dose of scepticism. I’ve seen so many buzzy formulations and viral products rise and fall on TikTok that I know the vast majority of skincare products that are hot one minute will undoubtedly be gathering dust in bathroom cabinets up and down the country the next. However, as a beauty editor, it’s my job to be able to sift through the glossy marketing campaigns and influencer recommendations and spot when an emerging ingredient deserves a closer look—and so when Google searches started climbing for PDRN this year, my interest was piqued.

You might have already heard of so-called "salmon sperm facials"—treatments where polynucleotides are injected into the skin to help with regeneration. Well, PDRN is a skincare ingredient that relates to a specific type of polynucleotide. Admittedly, there might have been a little eye rolling from me at first about the prospect of incorporating salmon sperm into my skincare routine, but when dermatologists I trust began talking about its rejuvenating properties and aestheticians mentioned its post-treatment soothing capabilities, I couldn’t continue to ignore it for much longer.

“PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a compound derived from trout or salmon DNA that’s been studied in medicine for its regenerative properties,” explains dermatologist Dr Sonia Khorana. And while PDRN has long been used as part of injectable therapy in aesthetic clinics for everything from wound repair to boosting collagen production, its migration into skincare products signals something bigger—PDRN products are about to go mainstream. “In topical skincare, PDRN is used for its ability to calm inflammation, support barrier repair and improve skin texture over time,” says Dr Khorana. “It’s particularly popular in Asia, where injectable forms are used in skin-rejuvenating treatments, and now we’re seeing it in serums and moisturisers too.”

Intrigued? Ahead, I asked two experts to help me understand exactly what makes PDRN so efficacious, and I share the best PDRN products on the market right now.

What Is PDRN?

So, we know that PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide, but what does that actually mean? Simply put, it’s a DNA fragment, most commonly extracted from salmon or trout gonad cells (hence the salmon sperm association), which is purified for medical and cosmetic use. “These DNA fragments then work by stimulating tissue repair, reducing inflammation, and promoting fibroblast activity, which are the cells that make collagen and elastin,” explains Dr Shin-Young Cho, medical director consultant dermatologist at Future Care Medical.

The data around PDRN is promising, too. “Clinical studies have shown that PDRN can accelerate wound healing and post-treatment recovery, boost collagen and elastin production, improve skin texture and hydration, and calm sensitive or inflamed skin due to anti-inflammatory properties,” explains Dr Cho.

PDRN vs. Polynucleotides

There has been a lot of discussion online this year about polynucleotides, particularly in terms of rejuvenating injectable treatments like the salmon sperm facial—and while PDRN is a type of polynucleotide, it isn’t exactly the same. “Polynucleotides are long chains of DNA fragments that support skin repair and regeneration, while PDRN refers specifically to a purified, low-molecular-weight fraction of DNA which makes it easier for the skin to absorb and use,” explains Dr Khorana.

And because PDRN does have shorter DNA chains, it also means that it’s a faster-acting skincare ingredient. “In my clinical practice, polynucleotides tend to be used for overall, long-term rejuvenation, while PDRN is often chosen for post-procedure recovery, sensitive skin, or targeted healing," says Dr Cho. So, if you’re looking for skincare to soothe inflammation or aid skin repair quickly, then PDRN products might well suit.

Which Skin Types Will Benefit from PDRN?

In good news, PDRN is widely regarded as a well-tolerated skincare ingredient that can be used safely by most skin types. “It’s gentle and effective, even for those with sensitive skin, but tends to best suit people with dull, dehydrated or ageing skin as well as those with concerns around texture, fine lines, or pigmentation,” says Dr Khorana.

However, both experts that I spoke to flagged that anyone with a known fish allergy should avoid using PDRN products entirely. While Dr Khorana points out that the protein that causes an allergic reaction to fish is removed when they purify the ingredient used in polynucleotide injections in clinic, meaning that she doesn’t have to worry about allergies, it is unclear whether the allergen protein is removed during the purification process for topical PDRN. “As it isn’t a medical device, it would depend on the individual brand and the lab's purification process, so I would proceed with caution if you have a fish allergy,” she explains.

Are PDRN Products Actually Worth It?

While a lot of the evidence on PDRN at the moment is based on its use in injectable treatments, the experts I spoke to did agree on the ingredient offering some promising skincare benefits. “It’s an innovative ingredient that is valuable for regeneration, post-procedure recovery, and soothing sensitive or damaged skin,” says Dr Cho. However, she does point out that penetrating deeper layers of the skin with a topical treatment is challenging, so the results are likely to be modest compared with an in-clinic procedure. “PDRN is a smart addition to, although not a replacement for, classic, gold-standard actives.” Combined with a routine that uses retinoids, peptides, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, though, it makes a nice addition for extra hydration and smoother skin.

The Best PDRN Products

1. Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Capsule 100 Serum

2. Lancôme Absolue Longevity The Soft Cream

3. Medicube Collagen PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

4. Genabelle PDRN Vita Toning Ampoule

5. VT Cosmetics PDRN 100 Essence